I know Valet beat me to it but, this was written a week ago, I have just been tracking pictures so, I don’t care. Plus this time of year, its the right thing to do. In many parts of the US “parka” has become the all encompassing term for winter coat.  If it keeps you warm and dry a “parka” it is.  But, as has been the way of this blog, that is not the beginning.

group of Nenets women in their seal pelt parkas. via

The word parka traces back to the Nennets language spoken by the nomadic people of the same name native to the tundras of northern Russia.  It was brought into the English lexicon in 1625 by Samuel Purchas in his Hakluytus Posthumus (at least partially a continuation of Richard Hakluyt’s Principle Navigation) a four-volume collection of poorly curated travel stories and discoveries from various explorers of the time.  Back then these “ethnic costumes” would have been seen as little more then an oddity to most of the English speaking world but, polar explorers used the knowledge of the local tribes to stay alive on their journeys into the unknown.  One of these secrets was how to fend off the cold and wind while still retaining enough movement to work.  The early explorers did as the natives, full pelt suits with hoods cut to fit the wearer.

Admiral Robert Peary (L) first credited with reaching the north pole and Roald Amundsen (R) discoverer of the south pole — two of the great moments of the “Heroic Age” of Antarctic exploration around the turn of the century

In 1945, the U.S. Army Air Force issued the Type N-3 heavy jacket for aircrew, the first of a long line of very successful N-3 style parkas.  By 1950 the US Air Force was split from the Army and the N-3 became the N-3A with a USAF blue shell.  The N-3 evolved into the N-3B by 1958, described as “for aircrew members in extremely cold environments,” designed as it was for temperatures down to −60 °F (~-50 °C).  The N-3B was a single breasted, four pocket, 3/4 length parka with an outer layer of nylon twill (typically sage green), insulated with a layer of wool pile fabric and lined with nylon cloth and a fur-trimmed, mouton lined hood.  The N-3B gained the nickname, “snorkle” because of how the hood could be zipped all the way up to eye level leaving only a small opening (the snorkel) to look out from.  It made for extremely complete coverage in cold weather, especially when worn with goggles but, made for problems with peripheral vision.

Arctic Survival Training Course, Eielson AFB, Alaska. Airmen sporting the N-3B, 2007

(L) Thule AFB, Greenland, 1953.  (R) Barksdale AFB, LA, 1960

Like most useful things the military issues, the N-3B parka soon made its way to the civilian market.  Surplus stores as well as knock-off brands were abundant.  Snorkle coats even became a sort of fad in the UK during recession and boom in unemployment at the beginning of the Thatcher era.  These days, although the shape hasn’t changed very much, the technology has.  With synthetics, chemical treatments and new technics the classic parka can be and has been made lighter, stronger, and warmer, not to mention available in any combination of colors you can imagine.  There are some things that don’t change though, goose down is super light and extremely warm, there are few substitutes for fur, and coverage is key.  So, instead of being cold this winter, think military and find yourself the version that best fits you whether its dead stock vintage surplus or brand new, high tech, North Face extreme.

When fall comes around and a lot of the heavier fabrics come out, work wear seems to take over.  The cold weather go tos of denim and corduroy are fabulous, and my opinions on them are well known.  But, corduroy and denim can only dress up so much.  Even with our dark selvedge jeans and designer corduroys they can only go so far.  So, what is to take the place of our chinos in the office when the temperature drops?

detail of Our Legacy’s Tweed Trousers

Tweed has always been country wear, mostly because of its heavily textured prominent weave but, modern tweed has evolved.  Some have become super posh and refined where as others have embraced the rougher sensibility and pushed the texture in more casual cuts.

Londons inaugural Tweed Run.  A leisurely winter bike ride through the busily metropolis in one of the more elegant winter fabrics.

Tweed is simply a rough, unfinished, woollen fabric.  It usually has a soft, open, flexible texture and is often found in a twill weave although a simple basket weave is also very common.  The well known mixed grey color that has been associated with tweed over the years isn’t necessary to make a tweed but, the heather mixtures where different colored wool strands are twisted together before being woven into the fabric, definitely add some awesome visual interest to an otherwise dull wool.

close up of Our Legacy’s fabric. check out that plain weave texture

Although tweed “professor” jackets are on point recently I think that majority of people still don’t wear sport coats on any kind of regular basis.  The idea of getting people out of there jeans with another equally comfortable and durable option on the other hand is very much in the realm of possibility.  So, I offer this, go out and give some plain tweed pants out his winter.  Wear them like you would wear your khakis in the summer of your dark jeans in the winter.  Get a pair with lots of crunchy texture that fits just right and has those little details that separate them from dressier trousers.  You’ll be just as comfortable as your friends in the jeans but, you will stand out from the crowd.  Give it a try and report back.

The word brogue goes all the way back to the sixteenth century in the British Isles.  It is actually a derivation of the Scotch/Irish Gaelic word brōg meaning shoe and brók from Old Norse meaning leg covering.  The shoes are so closely linked with the cultures of the Scotch and the Irish that their name as been used as the slang term for the strong recognizable accent of the region.  Modern brogues have their roots in pure function.  Their early ancestor was a boot made from heavy, untanned leather that was perforated so that the shoes could drain easily like a sieve, and a thick sole for stomping around the country side.

Brooklyn Circus modern brogue boots via Selectism.com

 Much of the highlands of Scotland and Ireland, the homeland of the brogue, are covered with sodden fields, bogs and marshes making it a very wet, not to mention uncomfortable place to trod unless you are properly prepared.  Since shoes were anything but water tight before the goodyear welt was perfected in 1869 easy drainage was a crucial part of the design of shoes in the isles.  Especially since many of the people who lived in Scotland and Ireland lived by hunting, shepharding, and farming, spending much of their slogging through the damp hills.  Without drainage, shoes would fill with water, becoming heavy and unpleasant to wear.  Over time, this rudimentary heavy work shoe came to be associated specifically with the working classes and country living because of its humble beginnings.

the birthplace of the country brogue. the Scottish highlands in fall

country brogues from one of the original English cobblers Grenson with a fat 

As technologies improved the traditional rudimentary form of the brogue evolved into a more formal shoe while still retaining the perforations, or broguing, and the traditional low heel but, losing the function, making the perforations simply decorative.  The actual term brogue wasn’t coined until the 20th century when the shoe had been refined to where gentlemen started to wear them during their country outings.  Seeing how resilient this peasant footwear was and not wanting to ruin their finer foot wear while relaxing at their country estates the gentry adopted brogues as a sort of homage to the noble peasant.  Though they did gain in popularity in the country no respectable person would be caught dead wearing them in the city or while conducting buisness.

modern brogues in the city

Today, brogues seem to be the shoe of the moment.  To go along with everything working class being brought back and dressed up brogues are going with dry selvedge denim and breton stripe shirts in design firms all across the US.  Whether or not peoples style choices are valid is not the point though, the renewed popularity of the brogue means that they are easily found at just about every price point and color.  So, go out and find a pair that feels good and do be afraid to scuff them up and get a little muddy.  After all that is what they are for.

Flannel has always had a somewhat split personality throughout history.  One leg in the world of blue collar, while the other stands in beautiful simplicity.  Many people know flannel for its brightly colored plaid side made popular by loggers and outdoors men around the turn of the century but, what many people don’t know is that flannel is simply a soft napped fabric woven from loosely spun yarn, the name itself doesn’t imply any color or pattern whatsoever.  Although flannel can be made from almost any fiber, good flannels tend to be made of cotton or wool with some synthetics these days.

(L) Timberworks Lumberjack Show owner and MC, Dave Weatherhead, in his plaid flannel. a real lumberjack (R) the real man in the gray flannel suit from theSartorialist.com

Since around the time of the industrial revolution flannel has been the fabric of choice for winter wear and linings at every level.  Everyone knows the classic image of the lumberjack in his red plaid flannel shirts and suspenders.  In the 60’s The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit was the impitomy of the average business man.  Most football and baseball uniforms were made of flannel all the way through the 60’s.  And we all know how in the early 90s, oversized plaid flannel had a stint in the lime light with the grunge movement.  For over a century people have used flannel as a liner in jackets and pants for the extra warmth.

Robert Redford in The Natural in his flannel New York Mets uniform

In reality, flannel is a very practical fabric.  It is relatively lightweight for the amount of heat it holds, it is easily washable (in cotton), its durable, and can be dyed any number of patterns or colors.  These days plaid flannel has been coming back in a big way but, it much trimmer more tailored cuts, taking it from grunge to fashion over night.  Of course you can still get the bright red, yellow, and blue plaid shirts that are the trademark of the outdoorsman but, there is also the classic flannel suit in a much more modern shape as well as more casual winter office wear in flannel trousers.  Although every mens wear outfit seems to be making good flannel this season some good options are, Lands End Canvas, Rugby, Pendleton, and on the low end Pacsun.  Its amazing you can find them at any price point.  If your really hard up there’s even Good Will.  Just remember the rules of fit and you will be stylin’ all winter.

The peacoat has been recognizable around the world for nearly three centuries now with very few changes from its original design.  Starting as a hard wearing seaman’s jacket in northern Europe the coat quickly gained in popularity among laborers in cold climates as it moved from port to port.  The actual word peacoat was derived from the name of the original 30-ounce wool cloth, pij, that the Dutch used to construct the hearty jacket.  The Dutch called their jackets “pijjjakker” or “pijjecker,” which in English means roughly “jacket of pij.”  Like most things of the sea, the jacket evolved and moved along trade routes through out the 18th century and was adopted by the British Royal Navy in the early years of the 1800s in turn spreading to the newly formed navy of the United States of America, which took much of its inspiration for its royal parentage throughout the 19th century.

(L) US Navy, c. 1870 (R) British Royal Navy officer c.1900

Eventual the English pronunciation of the Dutch pijjjakker took hold with the “pea jacket” becoming one of the most popular coats in history.  When it was finally adopted into the official uniforms of the US Navy toward the end of the 19th century they were being made from melton wool.  Melton wool is tightly woven and then treated with heat and high pressure to create a very dense, wind proof fabric perfect for uniforms.  This 32-ounce melton wool jacket would be standard issue for all US Navy enlistees all the way through to the 1970’s.  All though there have been some minor changes to the design, most notably two less buttons, lighter fabric, only two pockets, and more relaxed fit, over the years the basic look of the coat as endured.  A stout, double breasted jacket, with a large collar to block the wind and big buttons that can be worked with gloves goes all the way back to the original pijjjaker.

Lone Sailor Statue. modeled on then Petty Officer 1st class Dan Maloney, the ‘typical’ sailor

Although the build quality of the Navy issue jackets has definitely gone down since the early days of the American peacoat, it has slowly but surely made its way into the main stream and can be found in almost every designer label’s collection around the world.  Today peacoats can be found in just about every fabric, color, and price but, for my money, I dont understand paying hundreds of dollars for something of inferior quality that was intended to be cheap and durable when there are hundreds of thousands of military surplus peacoats at very reasonable prices to be had.  Plus, one of the beauties of the peacoat is its simplicity.  Its all about the silhouette, not some crazy fabric.  You might say, “but, you just told us Navy issue build quality has gone down.”  To that I would respond, “true, but, here in lies the beauty of vintage.”  The original Navy issue peacoats were built so tough and became so popular during the war years that there are still many good quality very lightly used originals to be found at good prices.  Check out this post at the Fedora Lounge forum about shopping vintage peacoats for the details but, just a teaser, one highlight, corduroy lined pockets and nipped waists on the WWII era jackets.

WWII era Navy recruitment poster with a girl in an officers peacoat

One last thing to remember.  Peacoats are nice warm but, they are not formal in anyway.  Actually, they are the opposite.  Some designers are trying to dress up the peacoat but, I think it has its place and its perfect there.  With a pair of jeans and a dixie cup hat its right at home.  There is no need to throw it on over a suit.  Thats what your top coats for.  So, get yourself a simple original, flip up your collar, and explore late fall in comfort and style.

PS if your interested in any US Navy uniform history there is a great write up here

Its getting close to gift giving time and as if buying things for the people you love wasn’t hard enough there are white elephant parties, office pools, and work gatherings where gifts for near strangers are sometimes expected.  In these instances you don’t necessarily know who you are buying for or there taste.  This can make things very difficult, especially if you don’t want to be that guy who buys the gag gift, or the one who walks in with an unwrapped bottle of Jack.  Although there may be a time and place for things like that there are some good stand bys that make for great gifts no matter who is receiving.

(L) Calvin Klein monotone ribbed scarf (R) Moncler tricolor ribbed scarf

One of the great things about scarves this time of year is that they are useful and most people don’t buy them for themselves.  They also come in just about every shape, size, color, style, and most importantly price range.  Most people have at least one simple fine gauge wool scarf in their closet from some relative as well as a hand knit one from the girlfriend who loved to knit or grandma, I know I definitely have both but, I have also found myself always going back to my trusty old ribbed scarf.

collegiate scarf straight from thestyleblogger

The ribbed scarf is exactly what it sounds like, a scarf knit with ribs which gives it lots of stretch for extra comfort.  Those ribs also add mass without adding to much weight meaning a light weight scarf that can hold lots of heat.  Generally more textural things are seen as more casual so, its easy to wear with jeans and a sweater or do the opposite and dress it up with a suit for a bit of contrast.  Personally, I really like scarves.  Scarves are like the casual winter version of the tie.  Don’t get me wrong, I do love ties and they are as good in winter as they are in summer but, a scarf can give you the opportunity for the flair and bravado of a tie but, without the stigma.

ribbed scarves in ones school colors were popular among the ivy league crowd in the 50’s and 60’s

With the prep revival in the last few years ribbed college stripe scarves have come out in force.  The dark textural colors of winter although appropriate can sometimes be a bit heavy and somber for a daily wardrobe.  A thinking person needs to find ways to bring a lightness to their cold weather look.  Along with socks, caps, and other accessories, collegiate scarves can give that punch of color that can make all the difference.

Corduroy is one of those fabrics I tend to turn to every fall.  Although I love my jeans, my corduroy is just as rugged and adds that bit of variety that some people start to lose when it starts getting to chilly for chinos.  Corduroy is believed to have originated in Manchester, England during the Industrial Revolution when textile industry was starting to move out of cottages and into mechanized factories.  As the name suggests it probably originated in Cord, then with the addition of the obsolete duroy or, a coarse woollen fabric, the name was born.  While some claim corduroy to be of French origin do to the fact the word “corduroy” looks French, as if derived from “corde du roi” (“cloth/cord of the king”), in fact there is no such phrase in French.  Actually the French call corduroy velours côtelé.  These days it is referred to by many names such as corded velveteen, elephant cord, pin cord, and Manchester cloth.  It can be easily identified by the telltale parallel ‘cords’ or ‘wales’ that run up and down the material and exhibit the softness that some describe as velvet with ridges.

Before the industrialization of textile manufacturing in the late 18th century most fabric was made on a very small scale by individual craftsmen.  With the development of mechanisims to process fibers like cotton as well as the ‘flying shuttle loom’ development of rapidly growing cash crops exploded across the western world.  With all of these technological developments production of good quality, hard wearing, cheap work clothes became a staple in English society and cotton took its place as one of the most popular fabrics in the world.  Since cotton made such durable and easy to maintain fabric things like drill, canvas, and corduroy became popular work wear for the various seasons.  It is such a strong fabric that it was even issued as part of military uniforms in the mid-19th century in the form of pants, a jacket and a vest during the Carlist War in Spain.  The Aduaneros or customs officers on the boarders of the Spanish state wore these uniforms with their blue beret, alpargatas, a sort of light sandal made of hemp, a grey cloak and a flesh-colored corset armed with a simple carbine, to collect duties and restrict imports.

(L)(a) Cuerpo de Aduana, Fall 1836 (b) Lancero de la Caballeria, Guipúzcoa, Spain 1835 (R) French bohemians at the turn of the century. corduroy pants and canvas smocks

Outside of the military context corduroy fabric had been used for young mens fashion as well as work clothes for centuries before denim became the popular work wear in Europe and North America.  Its durability and warmth made it ideal as hard wearing fall, winter and early spring wear in Europe and the colonies.  It became known as “the poor man’s velvet” since it was used by workers, artists and students and had the same fluffy pile of the fustian family or textiles.  The comfortable and stylish fabric became a staple of English country wear among nobles who split their time between a country estate and their townhouse.  Corduroy gave a soft, sturdy, and warm alternative to the delicate wools of finely tailored Saville Row suits and could still be tailored into respectable clothes for hunting and general pastoral living.  It wasn’t until the 20th century when universities started to do away with scholars robes for daily use that these comfortable and casual but, still elegant looks made their way to campus which might be were they were most iconic.  Students and professors would wear there jackets and pants until they were threadbare and simply cover the bare spots on the elbows with leather patches.  Today people buy jackets with the patches already attached but, they were their for a reason at one point.

(L) corduroy, tweed, and a rep tie a British staple. ready for the quail hunt (R) working man look from Polo Rugby

Corduroy was originally made with a cotton and linen blend but, nowdays most manufacturers of corduroy use some synthetic component like lycra with the cotton to help the corduroy keep its shape and keep a softer hand, in doing so they have destroyed much of this historic fabrics rugged edge.  It is now often used by designers for more sophisticated clothing although it can still be found being used for work wear in some parts of the world.  With the heavy trad movement these days any historic look like this can be pushed to extremes but, corduroy will always be a great go to in the colder months. Try putting the jeans aside and pulling on the corduroy.  Same idea as always, if it fits, your set or you can add a corduroy jacket with your jeans to make up a comfy up scale look.  Play with it, corduroy is the opposite of stuffy and if you really get into the wale look there’s even a Corduroy Appreciation Club.  There is going to be a big event in NYC on the date that most resembles the fabric itself November 11 this year (11/11/11) so, get your wales out, its going to be quite a party. 

The Henley originated as the traditional uniform of English oarmen at the Henley Regatta.  This classic shirt was named for the host town of the Henley Royal Regatta (HRR) the small riverside town of Henley-on-Thames.  The Royal Regatta has consistently been held on a straight in the Thames in Henley-on-Thames for the last hundred and fifty years.

via  map of the Henley Royal Regatta course 1893

via   print of the Henley Royal Regatta, 1844

Most commonly, oarsmen wore short sleeved henleys which more or less resembled a polo shirt without the collar.  This style also became a favorite among American baseball teams.

(R) Stuart Auchincloss in his Kent College Crew Team uniform at the Henley Royal Regatta. LIFE magazine June 1948

Interestingly, this shirt, which started with the highest pedigree became a staple for the American worker.  Especially once the long sleeved henleys started being cut from thermal cotton, people found them not only attractive but, extremely functional as a base layer beneath work clothes on cold mornings.  Those who worked outdoors in the lumber industry or on farms and the like snatched them up as protection against the elements.  By the 1970’s henleys had become a popular fashion staple.  A nod to the laboring working class who wore them.

(L) 1960’s pattern for casual henleys     (R) Jackie Collins in a tie-dyed henley, late 60’s

Today henleys can be found in just about every fabric, color, and pattern imaginable.  Although the classic thermals and cotton t-shirt version are still widely available, places like Urban Outfitters and American Apparel have tried to push the envelope in the pattern and materials departments.

Personally, I love my henleys neutral, thermal and fitted.  I can wear them workin’ on the car/bike, out camping, on winter road trips, or even to the mountain.  Its a fantastic go-to that, in my opinion, everyone should own.  I get mine from American Apparel but, just about every mens wear outfit worth its weight is doing a version of it so, don’t spend to much just make sure it fits and is comfortable.  And remember, superlux designer henleys kind of defeat the purpose.

Throughout the cold months of winter big goggles do a good job of blocking the sun, glare, wind and falling snow that you’re sure to encounter up in the mountains.  But, as the cold, wet months fade away, and the beautiful, warm, sunny days of spring take their place, goggles start to feel bulky, not to mention the classic raccoon tan lines that skiers tend to acquire after nice days on the slopes.  When spring comes around, and the t-shirt skiing starts, people start looking for something a little different to protect their eyes.

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