Cut-off shorts are not only comfortable and easy but, these days they are very much on trend.  With memories of stick ball in the col-du-sac and making out with Winnie Cooper under the bleachers there are few things better for a wet hot American summer.  On the west coast we are known for our laid back attitude and relaxed style, there is no better time then the long hot days of summer to show it off.  Cut-off shorts are a must for the beach, bike, and park, festivals, BBQs, and pools.

Michael Bastian in his signiture cut-off shorts.  perfect laid back summer time look all around

Unlike your saggy baggy shorts from high school, cut-offs have the advantage of once being pants.  The (hopefully) slim leg and shorter draw make for a much sleeker short and when you cut them yourself you can fit them just right.  The key with shorts is to get the proportion just right.  A shorter draw looks better with shorter legs just like a longer draw begs for a bit longer to keep the ratio in line.  Bigger legs can handle a bit longer short where as a longer short will make skinny legs look even skinnier.

a good visual on how to wear shorts but, remember proportion is top priority. remade from Primer via

Now that your wearing your cut-offs everyday remember to put some attitude into it.  These aren’t slacks and you aren’t going to the country club.  A bit of a roll on your shorts legs can be great or a funky belt that you normally wouldn’t think about wearing, this is the place.  Go a little crazy… it SUMMER!!

TIPS ON CUTTING YOUR OWN

1. Remember when cutting your pants mark them, then cut them a few inches longer then you think you might want.  Cutting more is easy, adding fabric isn’t.
2. Mark one leg then fold together and cut both legs at the same time to make sure they come out even.
3. A few inches above the knee is a good safe bet.  If you have bigger thighs err on the longer side and if you have thinner thighs on the shorter side but, never longer then a couple inches above the knee.
4. After you make you final cut at the length you want wash them to get the perfect fray and wear them till they fall off.
5. Have a pair of scissors handy every time you wash them to trim back the ever growing fray.

In the summer there is nothing quite like a well worn pair of canvas sneakers.  Preferably in white or some other equally light tone, canvas shoes have been favored by summer lovers for years.  They were a staple of tennis attire as well as a must have on and around New Englands docks and there was nothing better to bring to summer camp.  No need for socks, just some perfectly tanned ankles and a pair that fit just right.

I have had a love for canvas since I was little.  My dad played tennis and wore through at least one pair of Nylites and I ran through more Vans then I can count.  With everyone online talking about which is best and who should wear what I decided its the right time for another round up SO, here are my recommendations.

…and before you say it.  I don’t like converse, never have, never will.  They may look good but, at least for me, they are really uncomfortable especially sans socks.

Tretorn Nylites   $45… born in Sweden in 1967 the Nylites are regarded as the first luxury tennis shoe.  They were sported by tennis great Björn Borg in the 70’s and even immortalized in The Official Preppy Handbook in the ’80s

Feiyue Classics  $30… developed in Shanghai, China in the 1920’s Feiyue or Fly Forward in Mandarin was the most popular athletic shoe in China through the 1980’s.  Feiyue expanded with a French arm in 2005

PRO-Keds Royal Lo’s  $50… originally released in 1949 as the beginning of an athletic footwear line by Keds, the Royal’s were endorsed by NBA greats and Hip Hop royalty alike

Volley O.C  $80…. produced by Dunlop Australia in 1959 the Volley O.C. (Orthopaedically Correct) which was developed as a tennis shoe for Australian pro Adrian Quist became a main stay of Australian innovation and was worn by children, military, laborers and sports pros alike.  Volley will be suppling shoes for the Australian Olympic team for the 2012 London Summer Olympics

see the US site here—> volleyshoeco.com

Vans Authentic’s  $45… created by the Van Doren brothers in 1966 in Southern California the Vans Authentics became a symbol of west coast American style and laid back beach attitude

Every country at one time had their brand.  These are just a few that have the heritage and some nice simple kicks out now.  Also check out Gola and Umbro from the UK, Fila, Diadora and Superga from Italy, Spring Court from France, Adidas and Puma from Germany, and Onitsuka Tiger (ASICS) from Japan.

Moral of the story is… get yourself some white sneakers and make sure they don’t stay white for long.  Like everything I talk about on here, they are not meant to be baby’d they are meant to be worn hard till they fall off.  You can find a pair pretty cheap so, wear the hell out of ‘em and get a new pair next season.

The breton stripe sweater, as many other long lasting clothing trends has, surprise surprise, military roots.  In this case it was actually the French navy. On March 27, 1858 Napoleon III declared in an Act of France new requirements for naval uniforms which included a knitted shirt with 21 navy and white horizontal stripes one for each of his victories and at least 3/4 sleeves.  The easily recognizable sweater became a staple in Brittany where, because of its abundance of coastline has a thriving seafaring culture.  These sweaters were also practical since the distinct pattern was easily sighted beneath the ocean’s surface. Highly visible shirts meant less sailors consigned to Davy Jones’ Locker upon falling overboard.  Although the shirt was originally known as marinière (mariners style) or matelot (sailor) it didn’t take long before it became a symbol of the breton region and in doing so took the name.

(L) the flag of Brittany.  notice the stripes (R) French sailors in the galley in their breton uniforms.

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Since 1889, the sweaters were manufactured by Bretagne, Tricots Saint James in wool and cotton for sailors.  With its wide boat neck, 3/4 sleeves and soft knit textures it quickly became popular with breton workers.  They also released the Saint James Binic II sweater around the same time in Normandy.

(L) the original French navy boat neck breton (R) Saint James Binic II.  notice the button details and the gap in the stripping

So how did this now iconic sweater jump the pond and rise to international acclaim?  Legend tells that in the early 1900’s Mademoiselle Chanel took a trip to the fashionable shores of the French Riviera, where she was taken by the distinct look of the breton stripe shirts donned by the hard working fishermen in the riviera marinas.  After the trip rumor has it that Chanel brought these amazing stripes home and incorporated them into her wardrobe and in 1917 included them in a new nautical collection.  She often paired this much beloved nautical staple with other mariner mens wear such as high waisted wide leg pants.  The breton top became a symbol of haute-bourgeois loveliness during the pre-war riviera years

Coco Chanel in her boat neck breton

It even started to make its way into movies and make appearences on the backs of Hollywood A-listers all the way through the 50’s and 60’s.  it was first worn in the Hollywood biker classic The Wild One in 1953 by Brando’s co-star Lee Marvin who sported a breton style t-shirt for much of the film.  The story goes that after seeing that movie the biker Frank Sadilek drove from his home in the bay to Hollywood to buy his own breton.  Frank would later become the president of the infamous San Francisco chapter of the Hell’s Angels from 1955-1962. His style which included a gold earring, clip-on nose ring and his worn out breton stripe influenced biker style and culture immensely throughout his time at the top.  James Dean, who is still influencing people to this day, wore a breton stripe T in the 1955 movie Rebel without a Cause and also in 1955 Edith Head, the legendary Hollywood costume designer, dressed Cary Grant in a breton T with a white polka-dot cravat in To Catch a Thief.

(L) possibly Frank Sadilek in his breton with the Hells Angels (R) Lee Marvin as Chino in The Wild One

The breton is one of those amazing basics that has gone from the decks to the docks, from the runways to the big screen, and from high fashion to street style.  Today it is impossible to pin exactly where the breton belongs because it can fit anywhere.  Just about everyone is makings some form of the breton these days so, get it in t-shirt or sweater form and beat the hell out of it.

If you’ve been reading tingsic for awahile then you know that I make clothes mostly because I have a hard time finding things that fit the way I like at a reasonable price point.  The more I make the more I realize it is very possible to make quality clothes for very meager prices and still make a sustaining profit.  With the Spring/Summer collections and trends coming out in full force, white pants are strongly represented and the continued slide toward the extreme casualization of American mens wear lingers.

GQ spread on the white jean spectrum. From casual to buisness in a snap

Over the last week or so I’ve been working on finding fabric and starting to pattern some good summer jeans.  Since I started I’ve been getting a lot of shit from friends with regards to white pants.  So, for all yall who are against white pants as a concept please take a moment to ask yourself, why do we always wear dark colors on the bottom and lighter colors on top?  What’s so wrong with white pants?  Now, there are some good reasons for this configuration for some people and breaking these rules tends to automatically be more casual but, rules are meant to be broken and can expand your wearable wardrobe exponentially.

If you look at the clothes you already wear, I guarantee you have at least a white shirt.  Now think of the outfit you normally wear with your white shirt, maybe jeans? Now, turn the colors upside down.  Now you’re wearing white pants and a denim shirt or, instead of gray trousers and a white button down, how about white pants and a grey linen jacket?  Just by flipping what you already have you double your possibilities and make old things feel brand new.

the same guy, same colors and materials just in different combinations. two distinct looks.

White pants have been around forever but, white denim came into its own in the late 60’s when jeans started to become more then just work wear.  White jeans were becoming a staple of summer wear as they are once again.  Now, when you are looking for summer pants you want them to, obviously, be lighter weight then your heavy selvedge as well as lighter in color.  In denim that means somewhere between 8-11 oz per yard as opposed to the 11-15 oz per yard of the dry raw selvedge thats flying off the shelves these days.  When you start looking at colors for the warmer weather remember that the darker colors will absorb the heat where as the lighter ones will reflect it so, the whites, beiges, kahkis and pastels like powder blue or pale red not only look great but, are much more comfortable on those hot summer days.

take a cue from the style blogger.  enjoy the sun in your light white summer denim

Don’t forget that just because they are white doesn’t mean you should baby them. Don’t spend to much and wear them hard just like you would your dark jeans and stand out a bit this summer.

Most people have probably heard by now desert boots have their origins firmly in the fringes of the Sahara along the coast of North Africa during the second world war.  The allies moved into north Africa in June of 1940 to push back the Italians after they declared war but, soon the German Afrika Korps and the Vichy French forces took over control.  The African theater, although often over looked, was hard fought and included some very important battles, ending with the stage being set to push into Italy and eventually central Europe.

the British 8th army marching toward Tripoli, Libya through the desert in January 1943

As you can imagine the north African environment was not a friendly one for the Americans and northern Europeans sent to defend it.  Not only did it take its toll on the soldiers fighting but on their equipment and gear as well.  The heavy, hard-leather boots that the British troops had been issued were soon sand-blasted to almost nothing while the sun burned and bleached anything it touched.  The US army, on the other hand, issued, around the same time they entered the war, an ankle high field shoe with a suede finish.  Supposedly, the suede would breath better and also be able to absorb weather finishes better then the hard tanned version.  They also took less time to break in in the field.  The M-43 type III or ‘roughouts’ as they came to be known among the army service men, Boondockers by the US Marines, came to be a favorite of the African campaign.

(L) reproduction US Army M-43 type III roughout boots (R) Steve McQueen in the great escape with his roughouts

But, the Americans weren’t the only ones who realized lighter and softer would be an asset in this new environment.  The British 8th army, stationed in north Africa for much of the war, was infamous for its very casual adherence to army uniform regulations.  As their army issue gear disintegrated in the sands of the Sahara and resupplies were few and far between in the desolate war torn desert they had replacements made in the local markets adding their own improvements.  The legend of the desert boot places it in the fabled Old Bazaar in Cairo but, it could have just as easily been a souk in Morocco or market in Algiers.  Either way soldiers commissioned local craftsmen to make them soft, simple boots with a suede finish, like the USGIs boots, and utilized the natural plantation rubber crepe for the soles.

British 7th armoured division or the “desert rats” under foot inspection with their heavily worn boots, North Africa, WWII

Following the Second World War, a young Nathan Clark was serving in Burma with the West African Brigade when some of these simple ‘desert boots’ caught his eye.  Their conspicuous comfort stuck with Nathan and when he returned to England he moved quickly to create a Clarks version.  The first Clarks desert boot to hit America was released in 1950 at the Chicago Shoe Fair after a few years of success in Europe.  The simple modern style of Clarks Desert Boots appealed to the Mods in the 60s but, could just as easily be worn with a pair of Levis giving it broad appeal.  Plus, the fact that it was designed for the desert where it has to be able to stand up to extreme heat and cold gave it the versatility any good shoe should have.  Soon, the fashion of the revolution came full circle and in 1967 the Deputy Leader of the House of Lords, Lord Shackleton, came back from Aden wearing a pair of locally made desert boots.  Desert boots quickly became mainstream fashion in the UK and among American college students and when Shackleton returned to Aden he did so with a list of orders from several government ministers for pairs of the endlessly comfortable boot.

(L) Nathan Clark with his Desert Boot (R) Jimmy Cooper from Quadrophenia rocking roughouts in all their MOD glory

Ever since, this soft, floppy, ankle high boot has become something of an icon.  Clarks reintroduced the desert boot a few years ago, as part of the Clarks Originals range getting there piece of the nostalgia movement blowing up across the fashion industry.  Although deserts boots were born in the heat they make equally good early fall wear as long as it stay moderately dry and they can give a bit of interest to an otherwise average outfit.  Finally one of the great things about items of military history like this, they only get better with wear.

The M-1965 or M65 field jacket is simply the latest in a long succession of attempts to keep troops comfortable and protected in a variety of hostile climates.  As the name suggests the M65 was introduced into US military service in 1965 at the beginning of the escalation of the Vietnam War.  It was a further improved version of the M-1951 which replaced the World War II field jacket, the M-1943.

(from top to bottom) original M-43, M-51, and M-65 field jackets.  you can see the slight changes over the years

These jackets all had a few things in common.  Tough durable material, some degree of water resistance, a collar that could be turned up to block the elements and plenty of pocket space for gear.  Although popularized by American GIs and icons such as Ernest Hemingway this jacket was in no way an American invention.

Ernest Hemingway with his fourth and final wife Mary after killing something in his bush jacket

Throughout the 1800’s the European powers engaged in a race to map, explorer and colonize the deepest darkest parts of Africa.  People like Dr. David Livingstone, Henry Stanley and many other equally successful adventurers spent much of the 19th century spreading religion throughout untracked sections of African territory mapping new areas all the way.  These intrepid men knew that in the heat of the African bush one had to dress appropriately but, a gentlemen still wouldn’t be caught out doors with out his jacket.  The men developed light weight jackets cut from cotton and linen that had been dyed in khaki brought back from the British Raj.  These jackets had four large pockets for carrying various gear and were generally belted to support extra utility and better fit.  These bush jackets, as they came to be known, were so well designed and loved in the colonies that the British government incorporated them into the offical field uniform of the British Army starting in 1897.  The light weight and tan color made them ideal for tropical war zones and harder to soil then the older brightly colored wool uniforms of the old European empires.  Soon, similar jackets were incorporated into the uniforms of many of the major military forces around the world, including that of the good ol’ US of A.

(L) Dr. David Livingstone in Africa in the late 19th century wearing a makeshift precurser to the field jacket (R) British troops prepared for the Second Boer War in their new field uniforms, c. 1900

The field jacket took the elements that worked best from the original bush jackets and tried to improve upon them as the needs changed.  The M-43 incorporated a drawstring waist, doing away with the belt, and an attachable cotton pile liner for cold weather conditions.  The M-51 further improved the jacket by treating the fabric so as to repel water and adding a detachable hood.  Finally, the M-65 built the hood into the jacket making it stowable in a pouch on the back of the neck giving easy access as well as upgrading the liner to include a warmer synthetic pile.

The M-65 jacket became iconic with the Vietnam War but, it also became a symbol of the counter culture.  It was such a utilitarian design that even the protesters couldn’t deny its utility and with the jackets flooding the market through surplus stores and second hand shops with the ramp up in production for the war they were easy to get at very low prices.

Vietnam War protesters in fatigues

Of course militaria has always made its showing on the runways and fashion shows.  It works for the same reason it works for soldiers, functional pieces look good for their function.  The same reason why basics are sometimes the best thing you can have.  These days every major mens wear manufacturer has dabbled in the field jacket world.  One can find them at any price range and every level of luxury.  From bargain basement surplus to haute couture, its all about making sure it stays functional and fits.  Jackets like this are perfect for fall and spring because they are infinitely layerable.  I really like the ones below from J.Crew but, a lot of that has to do with the fact that they fit me really well.  So, go out and get yourself a modern, vintage, surplus, custom field jacket and where it like its meant to be worn.  On a great adventure.

(L) Safari Jacket from Berretta (R) J.Crew Fatigue jacket 

This one has been in the works for quite awhile now but, finding mens swim wear that isn’t terrible isn’t as easy as one would think.  I have been a swimmer for most of my life.  In competition its easy enough but, shorts for the beach or lounging proves to be much more difficult.  I have been searching for interesting swim suits for a long time and eventually it hit me, where are you going to find stylish well made swim suits?, places where rich people vacation of course.  So, a lot of the companies on this list come from southern France, Italy, and the Caribbean meaning, you will probably be the only person, where ever you live, wearing them.

When it comes to a story, the history of swim wear is relatively short considering humans have been enjoying the water since we walked on all fours.  It wasn’t until the mid-18th century that bathing clothes became a common and required fashion in private bath houses and even then, swimming nude at public waterholes, rivers, lakes, and the sea was the norm until well into the 19th century.  Nude bathing was outlawed for men in the UK in 1860 although little changed.  Many people still did as they pleased and the few that followed the law swam in there underwear which, wasn’t much of an up grade as far as decency is concerned.  But, by the 1870’s a rudimentary form of swim costume began to be available.  For men, these early swim outfits consisted of shorts and a waist coat constructed of a sturdy fabric so that modesty could be protected or something resembling a union suit.

man in his swim costume/underwear c. 1915

The first prototypes of  ”modern” swim trunks were cumbersome and made swimming extremely difficult.  The first Jantzen suit weighed nearly 9 lb. when fully soaked.  Modesty continued to be an issue well into the 1920’s. Under the “Bathing Suit Regulations” published in May 17, 1917, men’s suits had to be worn with flannel knee pants and a vest with a fly front.

The introduction of Lastex (synthetic rubber yarn) in the 1930’s created a whole new era in men’s swim wear.  This “miracle fiber” made it possible to give the wearer the appearance of a fit form.  Even overweight men had the chance to be “Mr. Muscles,” according to the advertisements.  Athletic supports, called “Sunaka” supports were sewn directly into the trunks, similar to a girdle, providing comfort and a trim appearance in front.

men at the beach c. 1930’s

The “Men’s Topper” introduced a new thrill in men’s swim wear. This unprecedented belted, two-tone wool suit gave the wearer the option to go bare.  The deeply scooped top was attached to the front of the trunks with the newly-invented zipper. Instead of being connected, the back of the suit featured a “y” arrangement of straps to secure the top to the chest. The top was removed by just unzipping the zipper. Unfortunately for many of those who did, this led to arrests for “indecent exposure.”

The public’s concern with nudity eroded as time passed. Shorts were the typical swim wear for men, with men’s swimsuits during the 1940’s looking very similar to the narrow hips and smooth abdomen of the women’s styles. Of course, those males with a little more modesty in mind could always opt for the “boxer-type” shorts.  With women’s suits becoming more flamboyant than ever during the 1950’s and beyond, the male bathing costume was not to be outdone, resulting in an explosion of color patterns and fancy detailing. “Cabana sets” consisting of matching boxer trunks and shirts with loud prints such as zebra stripes and pony prints exploded onto the scene.

awesome cabana set pattern from the 1960’s

From the 1950’s on mens swim wear stayed more or less the same shape evolving with the changing textiles.  The basic swim short in various lengths and styles are what ever guy wears today.  But, when it comes down to it there are really only three categories of modern mens swim wear that should be acceptable; trunks, board shorts, and swim shorts.  These may seem like all the same but, the differences are many and noticeable.  Below I will go into each one in detail as well as list a few that I like. DISCLAIMER: Most of the suits on this list I have only seen online so, I can not speak to their exact fit beyond the pictures but, that being said most of them seem to be cut well and they are all companies I would trust.

To start, board shorts, are exactly what they sound like, a swim suit designed to be worn while surfing or being very active in the water.  The terrible version has been popularized by douche bags and frat boys the world over.  First, if you aren’t surfing or doing something where your shorts my get pulled off by the water you shouldn’t be wearing board shorts.  Simply good board shorts should be durable, to hold up against the salt and board wax, very simple in design, no tribal/flower/girlie prints or things to break, a tie that will hold your waist tight and not let go, to prevent any de-suiting, if you will, during vigorous activity, slim but, with enough room in the leg to move freely, and finally, they should cover enough of your thigh that you don’t get board rash from the wax and sea water rubbing your hair into your board.  Notice, I did not say covers the knee,  I said covers enough of the thigh, which means no more then necessary.  Although the board short is probably the longest of the three categories it should still end several inches above the top of your knee.  Think 1970’s beach bum, add some gold aviators, Huaraches and a Oaxacan blanket, maybe a bum straw hat and you’ll be set.

Sundek $119 rainbow band with drawstring

Birdwell Britches $61 305 on the right 301 on the left

Saturdays Surf NYC $75 checks and jailbreak

Original Penguin $65 original plaid

Rede $70

Next, trunks.  Trunks are probably the most common swim suit you see, at least before the onslaught of the tribal board shorts.  Popularized by the cabana set trend in the 1960’s trunks continue to common in awesome colors and patterns and are great for lounging and hanging out by a pool or laying out for a tan.  They usually have an elastic waist with a tie on the inside, few if any pockets, mesh liner, and a little bit of a drape.  They are always very comfortable and light weight making them hassle free but, also less secure in rough water.  Trunks come in every shape and size and within the bounds of a good eye that can make for some fun looks.  You know you will probably never really wear a pair of trunks more then 50 yards from water so, you can get a little crazy with the patterns and not worry so much about looking like a fish out of water.  Traditional flower prints (not the tribal shit), basic geometrics and bright colors are right at home here.  Think of the colors and attitude of a beach in San Tropez.  Kick back in your beach chaise, order a fruity drink from the beautiful bar girl, relax and absorb the aquas, oranges, yellows, and greens to the sounds of calypso and crashing waves.

Franks Australia $140

Europann $57

Armata di Mare $57 stripes  $64 floral

MC2 Saint Barth $132

Solleone Capri $95

Lastly, the swim short.  If you want to dress like a grown up and look good by the pool  the swim short is what you need.  They are the swim suits you would see James Bond in.  The kind of swim wear that you can walk around town on the weekend in and not feel like your going to a pool party but, still be ready if the chance arises.  Be able to go from the beach to dinner just by grabbing a jacket.  If the board short is the polo of the swim wear world then this would be the suit and tie.  The swim short should be fitted, just like the pants of your favorite suit, but, not to the point of the obscene, shorter then the board short but, still acceptable in the city, have the convinces of normal shorts such as pockets, zip fly, and a snap closer, and finally, again, will be simple and elegant.  Think 1960’s atomic chic, Sean Connery’s Bond by the famous Piscine Molitor in Paris.

Sundek $129 snap fly

Dondup $59 snap short

Olasul $135 Cielo 5”

Orlebar Brown $205 Setter

Onia $130 Calder 7.5”

Park & Ronen $108 2” Angeleno

In the end its all about fit and just like everything else fit is very individual.  I gave you a bit of an overview on each style and how they should fit above but, everyone is shaped a little different so, there are some basic guidelines that if you follow you can’t go wrong.  First the smaller you are the shorter your shorts should be.  Now, of course there is a point where they shouldn’t get any shorter but, if you are a fit person then longer baggy shorts will just make you look tiny.  On the other hand if you are a bigger guy or you are a power lifter or sprinter or something with absurdly large thighs then you should wear slightly longer shorts or else your thighs or belly as the case may be will swallow them.  Much of what I posted favors the shorter and the smaller but, most of these companies make longer versions of the same suits.  Just follow the links.

As I mentioned in an earlier article, great leaps in eye safety, by that I mean the creation of eye safety, in the form of goggles and glasses were made during the industrial revolution.  With the advent of so much new technology and the capability of traveling at much higher speeds then ever before people started to notice the need for shielding to protect their eyes from, at the very least, flying debris.  Although the incidence of people losing eyes to projectiles definitely went down the understanding of solar radiation and the damage it can do to eyes was in its infancy so, these early lenses were little more then smoked glass and did little to nothing to combat infrared and ultraviolet rays common in welding arcs and high intensity sunlight.  These same wave lengths as well as UVA and UVB are the most common causes of photokeratitis.

John Kaminski c.WWI, the pilot goggles shape was the inspiration for the modern aviator

(L) Col. Donald Blakeslee with US Army Air Corps goggles, (R) Col. Glenn T Eagleston with RAF style goggles

These glasses never really made the leap from factory to runway.  Although they were durable and quality made they weren’t exactly comfortable or very attractive in the eyes of the Edwardian dandies.  They did however gain a following among adventurers and motorcycle enthusiasts who returned to civilian life after the first world war with their new found accessories.

Lt. John A. Macready and Lt. Oakley Kelly in 1924 before completing the first transcontinental flight

It wasn’t until the 1920’s when an adventurer, test pilot and Lieutenant in the US Army Air Corps noticed the damage done to his eyes after a prolonged balloon flying adventure and decided to do something about it.  Lt. John A. Macready enlisted the help of Bausch & Lomb, an established eye glasses manufacturer out of Rochester, New York to develop a pair of sunglasses that would provide the protection he required while retaining a certain elegance and in May of 1937 Bausch & Lomb took out a US patent on a prototype known simply as ‘Anti-Glare’ founding a sunglass devision branded Ray Ban.  Anti-Glare, the first pair of Ray Bans, had gold plated metal wire frames, in the same shape of pilots flight goggles, with green mineral glass lenses, called G-15s, all in a package weighing less then 5.3 oz but, the real achievement was in the glass.  The G-15 lenses filtered out both infrared and ultraviolet light making them the first functional sunglasses that would quickly become the trademark of quality sunglasses as well as the Ray Ban company.

pre-Ray Ban, Bausch & Lomb aviators

By the late 30’s almost all aircraft had enclosed cockpits so, flying debris was almost a none issue but, with flying altitudes quickly rising the risk of eye damage from intense sunlight increased.  As soon as Lt. Macready realized what he had with the newly founded Ray Ban he brought the glasses to the Air Corps which is where, like all good things, they spread like wildfire among the aviators of the Corps.  And so, the Anti-Glares were coined aviators after its legion of devoted adopters.

Ray Ban aviators quickly became a symbol of the fly boys fighting in the South Pacific.  One of the many iconic pictures to hit the papers toward the end of the war was of General Douglas MacArthur landing on the beach in the Phillippines wearing his aviators smoking his trademark corn cobb pipe.  Although the glasses were in demand back state side they weren’t really available until after the war.  Many of the solders brought their Ray Bans back to civilian life with them making them a must have all across the nation.  Soon there were all sorts of varieties on the aviator theme from brands all over the world but, few stacked up against the original Ray Bans.

General Douglas MacArthur in the Phillippines 1945, Life Magazine

Today, almost everyone has owned at least one pair of aviators.  They have been showcased in major blockbusters, like Top Gun, and worn by the in the know for more then 50 years.  They are perfect for those bright spring and summer days when your wearing little else and with the Americana revival aviators are once again cool and fashionable.  They key is to pick the right pair and they will last you forever.

basically think more Top Gun and less unibomber

The shapes and sizes are endless these days, from the original Ray Ban tear drops to crazy designer numbers made by underpaid natives in some obscure country (do to their small nimble fingers of course).  There has been a lot of talk about authenticity with companies like Randolph Engineering and American Optical both claiming to be the “original pilot glasses” but, when the hype falls away its all about how they fit.  I have worn RE glasses and they are very well made but, the balance feels off and they are very wide.  AO tends to have a similar problem.  I personally wear Ray Bans.  Although the tear drops are iconic I don’t like the way they fit on most peoples faces so, I leave you with a recommendation.  The Ray Ban Caravan.  They have been making them for decades, they weigh nothing, they look good on everyone and they have the original G-15s, all for under $100.  So, just remember try a bunch on, it doesn’t matter the name as long as they fit.  And if your looking for that throw back vibe the gold rims are as classic as they come.

travis bickle says Caravans are the way to go

For all of you who know me, you already know this one is near and dear to me.  I have grown up in and with VANS for most of my life.  At one point people knew me by my shoes.  I have owned many a pair and worn all of them until they have literally fallen off my feet only to go buy another pair.  So, bringing a bit of knowledge about this great company is especially fun for me.

a pair of my old checks from college

Most people know that VANS has its origins in mid 60’s southern Californian lore but, few know that it was founded by a middle school drop out from Boston with a long history in shoe making.  Mr. Paul Van Doren took a business trip out to California from Boston to straighten out an inefficient factory for his the company he had been working for for the last 20 years, Randy’s Shoe Co., in the early 60’s and after 6 months not only had he whipped the tired factory into shape but he had an idea.  Randy’s had always been strictly manufacturing and he had seen how small the profit margins were and how all the money was going to the retailers.  His dream was to run a shoe company that controlled both the manufacturing and retail sides of the business thus maximizing his profits.  So, in 1965 he picked up his family and moved cross country to Pasadena where in 1966, with the help of his business partners Serge D’Ella and Gordy Lee, he founded the Van Doren Rubber Company.

original Van Doren Rubber Company boxes

Now, to put this into perspective.  Starting a small shoe company 3000 miles from home and with little local knowledge is pretty ballsy but, if you realize that before the Van Doren Rubber Company there were only three American companies to make vulcanized rubber footwear, Randy’s, Keds, and Converse, you start to see how big of a cliff the Van Dorens were stepping off.  But, the big leap paid off and in March of 1966 the Van Doren Rubber Company store opened its doors with seven shoes and a wall filled with empty boxes.  That first day 16 people walked into that Pasadena shop and ordered shoes to be picked up the next day (since none of them had been made yet).  Over night all 16 pairs were made in the factory behind the shop and the next day all 16 were picked up, marking the beginning of the VANS brand.  By the fourth day of business the boxes were all filled and VANS was off and running.

original Van Doren Rubber Company factory at 704 East Broadway in Pasadena California, 1966

VANS custom shoe program began as soon as the shop had found its feet.  It was as simple as a lady coming into the shop and wanting a brighter shade of pink.  Now, of course Mr. Van Doren couldn’t be making shoes in every shade in the Pantone book but, he made an offer that would quickly solve the problem, if the lady brought him fabric she liked he would make her a pair of shoes.  The customs quickly became a huge part of the companies business with teams coming to get matching shoes and kids ordering their schools colors.  When a pattern or color set was ordered enough it would make its way into the VANS cannon making for an every growing pallet of color combinations offered in the store.

modern VANS customs ad

It wasn’t until the mid 70’s when the VANS company got connected in a serious way with the growing skateboard movement.  Hooking up with the boys down the street in Santa Monica, Tony Alva and Stacey Peralta of Dogtown fame became the first spokesmen for VANS and took the brand around the country.  The now infamous ‘Off the Wall’ logo didn’t appear until March of 1976 with the release of VANS first skate shoe, the Sk8 Hi, with its padded ankle cuff.  These seem like trivial things today but, developing shoes designed with the needs of skateboarders in mind was unheard of.  Skateboarding was still a very counterculture thing to be doing and VANS got in the middle of it by pure luck with their proximity to the epicenter.

Steve Cabellero in VANS Sk8 Hi’s rippin’ in the pool c. 1980

In 1979 VANS got their big break.  They were already do very well throughout southern California and selling some at skate events around the country through their sponsers but, in 1979 two big things happened; first the VANS slip-on, based on an older shoe developed by Randy’s back when Paul worked there, was introduced and, second pre-production for a little movie called Fast Times at Ridgemont High began.  The slip-ons were an instant success among the high school set and like most things high schoolers wear soon were defaced with various sharpied designs.  Steve Van Doren, Paul’s son, happened to be one of these sharpie armed teenagers and soon brought an idea to his father, checkerboard shoes.  The rest is history.

Fast Times at Ridgemont High original movie poster with Jeff Spicoli (L) and album cover with Spicoli’s shoes (R)

Fast Times at Ridgemont High was released in 1982 with Jeff Spicoli on the poster and his shoes, original VANS checkerboard slip-ons, on the the album cover.  From then on there was no stopping VANS.  Of course there were some money problems in the 80’s and 90’s, and the company eventual changed hands a couple of times but, it has stayed on point dishing out hot steaming west coast spirit around the world in the form of a simple volcanized rubber-canvas shoe.

well loved VANS authentics at the beach house

Like I mentioned before, I have a long standing relationship with VANS.  I remember the crazy printed canvas era of the slip-on.  I have always owned at least a pair of slip-ons and usually a pair of authentics.  I know that not everyone can be comfortable in checks and there is definitely an age limit in my opinion but, VANS is so much more then just the patterns.  The simple canvas authentics, in my opinion, are one of the best summer canvas shoe options out there.  They come in every color and last forever.  So, go out and get your self a piece of Pacific coast history and wear them until they fall off.

As many people probably know by now the Polo Shirt doesn’t actually originate in the polo fields but on the clay of French tennis courts.  The first 50 years of professional tennis was played in button-down oxford shirts and flannel trousers with cable knit v-neck sweaters all in white, similar to cricket attire, and a tie to top it all off, while women wore ankle length white skirts and pressed mens oxfords with, of course, a tie.  It goes without saying that the pace of play was nothing near what we see today at Wimbledon but, from these meager beginnings grew the traditions we grown to know.  By the time the International Tennis Federation was founded in 1924 and the grand slams had been established in a regular circuit the tie and sweater had gone by the way side but, men still played in pants and oxfords, with the sleeves rolled up of course, and women still had their full length skirts.

(L) Anthony Wilding, the New Zealander (R) Dorothea Douglass, the Brit, both Wimbledon champions from the turn of the century

Enter René Lacoste.  A member of tennis’ Four Musketeers from France, four legendary men of tennis who dominated the sport throughout the 1920’s and 30’s, Lacoste as well as his compatriots were equally impressive both on and off the court.  Between the four, they held 20 grand slam titles and had won 23 Grand Slam doubles by 1932. Lacoste stood out from the group with his entrepreneurial spirit which lifted him beyond simply sport.

In 1926, after complaining about the uncomfortable starched oxfords that were the common uniform of the day, he showed up at the US open championships in a style of shirt that would carry his name for the next hundred years.  The first polo shirt.

René Lacoste at the French Open in the late 20’s wearing his namesake polo

The Lacoste shirt had fitted short cuffed sleeves to hamper the problem of long sleeves unrolling, an extra-long shirt tail, that would become known as a tennis tail, to help keep the shirt in place during rigorous play, an unstarched flat ribbed collar, and a short buttoned placket that could be quickly undone to comfortably turn up the collar and block the sun.  The shirt was stitched from a cotton weave that he called jersey petit piqué which, was simply an unstarched version of a fabric borrowed from white tie accoutrement.  In its natural state it is very flexible, light weight, breathable and wicking so, it was perfect for formal occasions since it could hold so much starch you could make it stiff as a board but, Lacoste found that it also made for a perfect sports shirt without the starch.  Lacostes’ shirt made for one of the first modern examples of dedicated sports wear and almost over night became a must-have for serious tennis players the world over.

La Société Chemise Lacoste trademark logo created from René Lacoste’s nickname lives on on the front of every Lacoste polo

To stand out from the growing number of polo shirts on the courts a year after its debut Lacoste added an alligator emblem to the left breast of his shirt, a nod to his nickname, the alligator.  This now iconic emblem became the logo and masthead of the company, La Société Chemise Lacoste, that he would found with friend and clothing merchandiser André Gillier in 1933.  The company mainly focused on the tennis shirt and almost exclusively in tennis white, marketing to yatchsmen, golfers, and polo players as well as the tennis community until 1951 when they took the leap and began offering colors and patterns.  The next year Lacoste began exports to the USA under the banner “the status symbol of the competent sportsman” instantly making it a must have for the sporting jet set.

The King, Mr. Arnold Palmer, polo clad in the late 50’s

In post war boom America the polo shirt became a symbol of the middle class expansion.  People starting taking advantage of new textiles and techniques, taking the basic frame work of the polo and changing the fabric.  Soon and even more casual polo made from a knit jersey similar to t-shirts that the Coco Chanel had popularized years earlier started to become readily available.

Although for the turn of the century the stiffer pique polo was extremely casual, verging on inappropriate outside of very specific occasions, by the 50’s this standard polo was considered appropriate for garden parties and outdoor summer events under a sport coat as well as relaxing at BBQs.  At the same time, polos made from the softer jersey cotton were growing in popularity and becoming a less structured ‘go to’ especially on the beachy coasts of America.

(L) Clint Eastwood wearing his pique Lacoste polo (R) James Dean in his jersey knit

While in America the prep set were taking hold of the polo shirt, in Europe the growing MOD and skinhead movements had adopted the shirts for there own purposes.  Tight fitted polos from British labels such as Ben Sherman and Fred Perry became the uniform of the rebellion in 1960’s Briton.  In the 1970’s 6,000 miles away in California the printed jersey polo gained popularity among the beach loving surfers and, like most things, spread throughout the country as California style through companies like OP and Stride.

(Above) British skinheads in there Fred Perry polos (Below)(L) Ocean Pacific ad from the late 70’s (R) detail of an OP printed polo c. 1970’s

A friend of mine was recently compaining about having to wear polos to work.  He said that they are too corporate and prep (he said all this while wearing an oversized polo and Ill fitting pleated khakis).  So, I gave him a short run down of the history and told him that the unfortunate prep revival of the 80’s is not the entire picture.  The modern polo is endlessly adaptable, its all in how you wear it.  From Ivy league to surf style, from romper stomper to rap mogul.  One can look terrible and straight out of Office Space in a polo but, you can also look like the toughest rowdy in town.  Its not the shirt, its the person and how they decide to rock it.

I personally own both traditional pique polos and jersey knits and rock them whenever the moment fits.  I think the texture of the pique lends itself well to solid colors and simple more dressed up events where as the jersey shirts can be screen printed, as seen in the pictures, and worn as an alternative to a t-shirt or when a t-shirt isn’t enough.  Polos are fun because they come in every color, shape, size, and pattern you can imagine.  From the massive FUBU and IZOD golf polos to the slim and trim Ben Shermans  there is a polo for everyone, and in a world of t-shirts its a great and easy way to step it up.  They key as always is fit.  Get it to fit and you will be set.

Ill leave you with a picture of what not to do…

don’t be a douche bag