Cut-off shorts are not only comfortable and easy but, these days they are very much on trend.  With memories of stick ball in the col-du-sac and making out with Winnie Cooper under the bleachers there are few things better for a wet hot American summer.  On the west coast we are known for our laid back attitude and relaxed style, there is no better time then the long hot days of summer to show it off.  Cut-off shorts are a must for the beach, bike, and park, festivals, BBQs, and pools.

Michael Bastian in his signiture cut-off shorts.  perfect laid back summer time look all around

Unlike your saggy baggy shorts from high school, cut-offs have the advantage of once being pants.  The (hopefully) slim leg and shorter draw make for a much sleeker short and when you cut them yourself you can fit them just right.  The key with shorts is to get the proportion just right.  A shorter draw looks better with shorter legs just like a longer draw begs for a bit longer to keep the ratio in line.  Bigger legs can handle a bit longer short where as a longer short will make skinny legs look even skinnier.

a good visual on how to wear shorts but, remember proportion is top priority. remade from Primer via

Now that your wearing your cut-offs everyday remember to put some attitude into it.  These aren’t slacks and you aren’t going to the country club.  A bit of a roll on your shorts legs can be great or a funky belt that you normally wouldn’t think about wearing, this is the place.  Go a little crazy… it SUMMER!!

TIPS ON CUTTING YOUR OWN

1. Remember when cutting your pants mark them, then cut them a few inches longer then you think you might want.  Cutting more is easy, adding fabric isn’t.
2. Mark one leg then fold together and cut both legs at the same time to make sure they come out even.
3. A few inches above the knee is a good safe bet.  If you have bigger thighs err on the longer side and if you have thinner thighs on the shorter side but, never longer then a couple inches above the knee.
4. After you make you final cut at the length you want wash them to get the perfect fray and wear them till they fall off.
5. Have a pair of scissors handy every time you wash them to trim back the ever growing fray.

If you’ve been reading tingsic for awahile then you know that I make clothes mostly because I have a hard time finding things that fit the way I like at a reasonable price point.  The more I make the more I realize it is very possible to make quality clothes for very meager prices and still make a sustaining profit.  With the Spring/Summer collections and trends coming out in full force, white pants are strongly represented and the continued slide toward the extreme casualization of American mens wear lingers.

GQ spread on the white jean spectrum. From casual to buisness in a snap

Over the last week or so I’ve been working on finding fabric and starting to pattern some good summer jeans.  Since I started I’ve been getting a lot of shit from friends with regards to white pants.  So, for all yall who are against white pants as a concept please take a moment to ask yourself, why do we always wear dark colors on the bottom and lighter colors on top?  What’s so wrong with white pants?  Now, there are some good reasons for this configuration for some people and breaking these rules tends to automatically be more casual but, rules are meant to be broken and can expand your wearable wardrobe exponentially.

If you look at the clothes you already wear, I guarantee you have at least a white shirt.  Now think of the outfit you normally wear with your white shirt, maybe jeans? Now, turn the colors upside down.  Now you’re wearing white pants and a denim shirt or, instead of gray trousers and a white button down, how about white pants and a grey linen jacket?  Just by flipping what you already have you double your possibilities and make old things feel brand new.

the same guy, same colors and materials just in different combinations. two distinct looks.

White pants have been around forever but, white denim came into its own in the late 60’s when jeans started to become more then just work wear.  White jeans were becoming a staple of summer wear as they are once again.  Now, when you are looking for summer pants you want them to, obviously, be lighter weight then your heavy selvedge as well as lighter in color.  In denim that means somewhere between 8-11 oz per yard as opposed to the 11-15 oz per yard of the dry raw selvedge thats flying off the shelves these days.  When you start looking at colors for the warmer weather remember that the darker colors will absorb the heat where as the lighter ones will reflect it so, the whites, beiges, kahkis and pastels like powder blue or pale red not only look great but, are much more comfortable on those hot summer days.

take a cue from the style blogger.  enjoy the sun in your light white summer denim

Don’t forget that just because they are white doesn’t mean you should baby them. Don’t spend to much and wear them hard just like you would your dark jeans and stand out a bit this summer.

When fall comes around and a lot of the heavier fabrics come out, work wear seems to take over.  The cold weather go tos of denim and corduroy are fabulous, and my opinions on them are well known.  But, corduroy and denim can only dress up so much.  Even with our dark selvedge jeans and designer corduroys they can only go so far.  So, what is to take the place of our chinos in the office when the temperature drops?

detail of Our Legacy’s Tweed Trousers

Tweed has always been country wear, mostly because of its heavily textured prominent weave but, modern tweed has evolved.  Some have become super posh and refined where as others have embraced the rougher sensibility and pushed the texture in more casual cuts.

Londons inaugural Tweed Run.  A leisurely winter bike ride through the busily metropolis in one of the more elegant winter fabrics.

Tweed is simply a rough, unfinished, woollen fabric.  It usually has a soft, open, flexible texture and is often found in a twill weave although a simple basket weave is also very common.  The well known mixed grey color that has been associated with tweed over the years isn’t necessary to make a tweed but, the heather mixtures where different colored wool strands are twisted together before being woven into the fabric, definitely add some awesome visual interest to an otherwise dull wool.

close up of Our Legacy’s fabric. check out that plain weave texture

Although tweed “professor” jackets are on point recently I think that majority of people still don’t wear sport coats on any kind of regular basis.  The idea of getting people out of there jeans with another equally comfortable and durable option on the other hand is very much in the realm of possibility.  So, I offer this, go out and give some plain tweed pants out his winter.  Wear them like you would wear your khakis in the summer of your dark jeans in the winter.  Get a pair with lots of crunchy texture that fits just right and has those little details that separate them from dressier trousers.  You’ll be just as comfortable as your friends in the jeans but, you will stand out from the crowd.  Give it a try and report back.

Flannel has always had a somewhat split personality throughout history.  One leg in the world of blue collar, while the other stands in beautiful simplicity.  Many people know flannel for its brightly colored plaid side made popular by loggers and outdoors men around the turn of the century but, what many people don’t know is that flannel is simply a soft napped fabric woven from loosely spun yarn, the name itself doesn’t imply any color or pattern whatsoever.  Although flannel can be made from almost any fiber, good flannels tend to be made of cotton or wool with some synthetics these days.

(L) Timberworks Lumberjack Show owner and MC, Dave Weatherhead, in his plaid flannel. a real lumberjack (R) the real man in the gray flannel suit from theSartorialist.com

Since around the time of the industrial revolution flannel has been the fabric of choice for winter wear and linings at every level.  Everyone knows the classic image of the lumberjack in his red plaid flannel shirts and suspenders.  In the 60’s The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit was the impitomy of the average business man.  Most football and baseball uniforms were made of flannel all the way through the 60’s.  And we all know how in the early 90s, oversized plaid flannel had a stint in the lime light with the grunge movement.  For over a century people have used flannel as a liner in jackets and pants for the extra warmth.

Robert Redford in The Natural in his flannel New York Mets uniform

In reality, flannel is a very practical fabric.  It is relatively lightweight for the amount of heat it holds, it is easily washable (in cotton), its durable, and can be dyed any number of patterns or colors.  These days plaid flannel has been coming back in a big way but, it much trimmer more tailored cuts, taking it from grunge to fashion over night.  Of course you can still get the bright red, yellow, and blue plaid shirts that are the trademark of the outdoorsman but, there is also the classic flannel suit in a much more modern shape as well as more casual winter office wear in flannel trousers.  Although every mens wear outfit seems to be making good flannel this season some good options are, Lands End Canvas, Rugby, Pendleton, and on the low end Pacsun.  Its amazing you can find them at any price point.  If your really hard up there’s even Good Will.  Just remember the rules of fit and you will be stylin’ all winter.

Corduroy is one of those fabrics I tend to turn to every fall.  Although I love my jeans, my corduroy is just as rugged and adds that bit of variety that some people start to lose when it starts getting to chilly for chinos.  Corduroy is believed to have originated in Manchester, England during the Industrial Revolution when textile industry was starting to move out of cottages and into mechanized factories.  As the name suggests it probably originated in Cord, then with the addition of the obsolete duroy or, a coarse woollen fabric, the name was born.  While some claim corduroy to be of French origin do to the fact the word “corduroy” looks French, as if derived from “corde du roi” (“cloth/cord of the king”), in fact there is no such phrase in French.  Actually the French call corduroy velours côtelé.  These days it is referred to by many names such as corded velveteen, elephant cord, pin cord, and Manchester cloth.  It can be easily identified by the telltale parallel ‘cords’ or ‘wales’ that run up and down the material and exhibit the softness that some describe as velvet with ridges.

Before the industrialization of textile manufacturing in the late 18th century most fabric was made on a very small scale by individual craftsmen.  With the development of mechanisims to process fibers like cotton as well as the ‘flying shuttle loom’ development of rapidly growing cash crops exploded across the western world.  With all of these technological developments production of good quality, hard wearing, cheap work clothes became a staple in English society and cotton took its place as one of the most popular fabrics in the world.  Since cotton made such durable and easy to maintain fabric things like drill, canvas, and corduroy became popular work wear for the various seasons.  It is such a strong fabric that it was even issued as part of military uniforms in the mid-19th century in the form of pants, a jacket and a vest during the Carlist War in Spain.  The Aduaneros or customs officers on the boarders of the Spanish state wore these uniforms with their blue beret, alpargatas, a sort of light sandal made of hemp, a grey cloak and a flesh-colored corset armed with a simple carbine, to collect duties and restrict imports.

(L)(a) Cuerpo de Aduana, Fall 1836 (b) Lancero de la Caballeria, Guipúzcoa, Spain 1835 (R) French bohemians at the turn of the century. corduroy pants and canvas smocks

Outside of the military context corduroy fabric had been used for young mens fashion as well as work clothes for centuries before denim became the popular work wear in Europe and North America.  Its durability and warmth made it ideal as hard wearing fall, winter and early spring wear in Europe and the colonies.  It became known as “the poor man’s velvet” since it was used by workers, artists and students and had the same fluffy pile of the fustian family or textiles.  The comfortable and stylish fabric became a staple of English country wear among nobles who split their time between a country estate and their townhouse.  Corduroy gave a soft, sturdy, and warm alternative to the delicate wools of finely tailored Saville Row suits and could still be tailored into respectable clothes for hunting and general pastoral living.  It wasn’t until the 20th century when universities started to do away with scholars robes for daily use that these comfortable and casual but, still elegant looks made their way to campus which might be were they were most iconic.  Students and professors would wear there jackets and pants until they were threadbare and simply cover the bare spots on the elbows with leather patches.  Today people buy jackets with the patches already attached but, they were their for a reason at one point.

(L) corduroy, tweed, and a rep tie a British staple. ready for the quail hunt (R) working man look from Polo Rugby

Corduroy was originally made with a cotton and linen blend but, nowdays most manufacturers of corduroy use some synthetic component like lycra with the cotton to help the corduroy keep its shape and keep a softer hand, in doing so they have destroyed much of this historic fabrics rugged edge.  It is now often used by designers for more sophisticated clothing although it can still be found being used for work wear in some parts of the world.  With the heavy trad movement these days any historic look like this can be pushed to extremes but, corduroy will always be a great go to in the colder months. Try putting the jeans aside and pulling on the corduroy.  Same idea as always, if it fits, your set or you can add a corduroy jacket with your jeans to make up a comfy up scale look.  Play with it, corduroy is the opposite of stuffy and if you really get into the wale look there’s even a Corduroy Appreciation Club.  There is going to be a big event in NYC on the date that most resembles the fabric itself November 11 this year (11/11/11) so, get your wales out, its going to be quite a party. 

This one has been in the works for quite awhile now but, finding mens swim wear that isn’t terrible isn’t as easy as one would think.  I have been a swimmer for most of my life.  In competition its easy enough but, shorts for the beach or lounging proves to be much more difficult.  I have been searching for interesting swim suits for a long time and eventually it hit me, where are you going to find stylish well made swim suits?, places where rich people vacation of course.  So, a lot of the companies on this list come from southern France, Italy, and the Caribbean meaning, you will probably be the only person, where ever you live, wearing them.

When it comes to a story, the history of swim wear is relatively short considering humans have been enjoying the water since we walked on all fours.  It wasn’t until the mid-18th century that bathing clothes became a common and required fashion in private bath houses and even then, swimming nude at public waterholes, rivers, lakes, and the sea was the norm until well into the 19th century.  Nude bathing was outlawed for men in the UK in 1860 although little changed.  Many people still did as they pleased and the few that followed the law swam in there underwear which, wasn’t much of an up grade as far as decency is concerned.  But, by the 1870’s a rudimentary form of swim costume began to be available.  For men, these early swim outfits consisted of shorts and a waist coat constructed of a sturdy fabric so that modesty could be protected or something resembling a union suit.

man in his swim costume/underwear c. 1915

The first prototypes of  ”modern” swim trunks were cumbersome and made swimming extremely difficult.  The first Jantzen suit weighed nearly 9 lb. when fully soaked.  Modesty continued to be an issue well into the 1920’s. Under the “Bathing Suit Regulations” published in May 17, 1917, men’s suits had to be worn with flannel knee pants and a vest with a fly front.

The introduction of Lastex (synthetic rubber yarn) in the 1930’s created a whole new era in men’s swim wear.  This “miracle fiber” made it possible to give the wearer the appearance of a fit form.  Even overweight men had the chance to be “Mr. Muscles,” according to the advertisements.  Athletic supports, called “Sunaka” supports were sewn directly into the trunks, similar to a girdle, providing comfort and a trim appearance in front.

men at the beach c. 1930’s

The “Men’s Topper” introduced a new thrill in men’s swim wear. This unprecedented belted, two-tone wool suit gave the wearer the option to go bare.  The deeply scooped top was attached to the front of the trunks with the newly-invented zipper. Instead of being connected, the back of the suit featured a “y” arrangement of straps to secure the top to the chest. The top was removed by just unzipping the zipper. Unfortunately for many of those who did, this led to arrests for “indecent exposure.”

The public’s concern with nudity eroded as time passed. Shorts were the typical swim wear for men, with men’s swimsuits during the 1940’s looking very similar to the narrow hips and smooth abdomen of the women’s styles. Of course, those males with a little more modesty in mind could always opt for the “boxer-type” shorts.  With women’s suits becoming more flamboyant than ever during the 1950’s and beyond, the male bathing costume was not to be outdone, resulting in an explosion of color patterns and fancy detailing. “Cabana sets” consisting of matching boxer trunks and shirts with loud prints such as zebra stripes and pony prints exploded onto the scene.

awesome cabana set pattern from the 1960’s

From the 1950’s on mens swim wear stayed more or less the same shape evolving with the changing textiles.  The basic swim short in various lengths and styles are what ever guy wears today.  But, when it comes down to it there are really only three categories of modern mens swim wear that should be acceptable; trunks, board shorts, and swim shorts.  These may seem like all the same but, the differences are many and noticeable.  Below I will go into each one in detail as well as list a few that I like. DISCLAIMER: Most of the suits on this list I have only seen online so, I can not speak to their exact fit beyond the pictures but, that being said most of them seem to be cut well and they are all companies I would trust.

To start, board shorts, are exactly what they sound like, a swim suit designed to be worn while surfing or being very active in the water.  The terrible version has been popularized by douche bags and frat boys the world over.  First, if you aren’t surfing or doing something where your shorts my get pulled off by the water you shouldn’t be wearing board shorts.  Simply good board shorts should be durable, to hold up against the salt and board wax, very simple in design, no tribal/flower/girlie prints or things to break, a tie that will hold your waist tight and not let go, to prevent any de-suiting, if you will, during vigorous activity, slim but, with enough room in the leg to move freely, and finally, they should cover enough of your thigh that you don’t get board rash from the wax and sea water rubbing your hair into your board.  Notice, I did not say covers the knee,  I said covers enough of the thigh, which means no more then necessary.  Although the board short is probably the longest of the three categories it should still end several inches above the top of your knee.  Think 1970’s beach bum, add some gold aviators, Huaraches and a Oaxacan blanket, maybe a bum straw hat and you’ll be set.

Sundek $119 rainbow band with drawstring

Birdwell Britches $61 305 on the right 301 on the left

Saturdays Surf NYC $75 checks and jailbreak

Original Penguin $65 original plaid

Rede $70

Next, trunks.  Trunks are probably the most common swim suit you see, at least before the onslaught of the tribal board shorts.  Popularized by the cabana set trend in the 1960’s trunks continue to common in awesome colors and patterns and are great for lounging and hanging out by a pool or laying out for a tan.  They usually have an elastic waist with a tie on the inside, few if any pockets, mesh liner, and a little bit of a drape.  They are always very comfortable and light weight making them hassle free but, also less secure in rough water.  Trunks come in every shape and size and within the bounds of a good eye that can make for some fun looks.  You know you will probably never really wear a pair of trunks more then 50 yards from water so, you can get a little crazy with the patterns and not worry so much about looking like a fish out of water.  Traditional flower prints (not the tribal shit), basic geometrics and bright colors are right at home here.  Think of the colors and attitude of a beach in San Tropez.  Kick back in your beach chaise, order a fruity drink from the beautiful bar girl, relax and absorb the aquas, oranges, yellows, and greens to the sounds of calypso and crashing waves.

Franks Australia $140

Europann $57

Armata di Mare $57 stripes  $64 floral

MC2 Saint Barth $132

Solleone Capri $95

Lastly, the swim short.  If you want to dress like a grown up and look good by the pool  the swim short is what you need.  They are the swim suits you would see James Bond in.  The kind of swim wear that you can walk around town on the weekend in and not feel like your going to a pool party but, still be ready if the chance arises.  Be able to go from the beach to dinner just by grabbing a jacket.  If the board short is the polo of the swim wear world then this would be the suit and tie.  The swim short should be fitted, just like the pants of your favorite suit, but, not to the point of the obscene, shorter then the board short but, still acceptable in the city, have the convinces of normal shorts such as pockets, zip fly, and a snap closer, and finally, again, will be simple and elegant.  Think 1960’s atomic chic, Sean Connery’s Bond by the famous Piscine Molitor in Paris.

Sundek $129 snap fly

Dondup $59 snap short

Olasul $135 Cielo 5”

Orlebar Brown $205 Setter

Onia $130 Calder 7.5”

Park & Ronen $108 2” Angeleno

In the end its all about fit and just like everything else fit is very individual.  I gave you a bit of an overview on each style and how they should fit above but, everyone is shaped a little different so, there are some basic guidelines that if you follow you can’t go wrong.  First the smaller you are the shorter your shorts should be.  Now, of course there is a point where they shouldn’t get any shorter but, if you are a fit person then longer baggy shorts will just make you look tiny.  On the other hand if you are a bigger guy or you are a power lifter or sprinter or something with absurdly large thighs then you should wear slightly longer shorts or else your thighs or belly as the case may be will swallow them.  Much of what I posted favors the shorter and the smaller but, most of these companies make longer versions of the same suits.  Just follow the links.

I think most Americans have fond memories of going away to summer camp.  Summer has been a time of absolute freedom for American kids for quite awhile. Camping as a seasonal ritual though only goes back to the reconstruction era in America.

Organized camping for children has only been around since the mid-19th century.  The founding father and spiritual leader of modern recreational camping, Frederick W. Gunn, got the whole thing moving by hitching a cow to a wagon filled with supplies and take several boys out into the wilds of Connecticut to pitch camp.  The cow would provide fresh milk for the entire trip and with the lack of quality backpacks the wagon helped to carry all the heavy rudimentary gear leaving Frederick and his boys to explore nature, fish, hunt, and blaze their own trail.  In these early days, camping hadn’t been coined yet, he simply called it Gypsying.

Along with Frederick Gunn’s The Gunnery, his name sake acadamy that he founded in 1850 with the concept of promoting the four cornerstones on which he said “character was built”: scholarship, integrity, respect and responsibility, the YMCA, which became an international organization in 1851, and the Boy Scouts of America, which was founded around 1910 on the model laid out by the British Boy Scout Association, collectively promoted summer camp, offering the outdoors and community to the growing urban populations of an industrialized America.

Boy scouts circa 1940s

Most of these early camps were loosely organized and didn’t require uniforms, with the exception of the Boy Scouts of course, but by the 1920’s private fee-paying camps started popping up around the outskirts of the large American metropolises.  Many of which offered both adult and children’s get away programs from the affluent middle upper classes through out the summers.  An escape from life in the city and a chance to connect with the less urban roots of America.  Before the 20’s shorts had been a rarity so, kids went to summer camp in their knickers or jeans but, as soon as fancier organized fee paying camps starting making programs for the more gentile class camp uniforms became de rigueur.  It was also simply practical, you didn’t have to get your nice city clothes dirty at camp if you had a uniform.  Camp uniforms usually consisting of a simple t-shirt with the camps name or logo and simple boxer shorts for boys or culottes for girls.  The problem with these uniforms is they tended to have few if any pockets and for a red-blooded American boy at camp thats just not acceptable.  Where do you store all the bugs and rocks you find?!

Boys summer camp uniforms circa 1940s

Shorts weren’t really excepted in the general public outside of tennis courts, the beach, and sports clubs, until after WWII.  When the GI’s returned from north africa and the tropics their love for short pants as a reasonable garment on warm days spread in a quickly relaxing society and by the end of the Korean War shorts were becoming a summer staple.

GIs in the South Pacific rockin their shorts

The mid-50’s saw the birth of camp shorts.  They were introduced to the rapidly expanding middle class and with the growing popularity of leisure and recreation among the newly wealthy boomers outdoors style became trendy right along side the growing Hawaiian and resort-style trends brought back from the islands.  Camp shorts took cues from the uniforms of the returning GIs, generally being made from tough drill cotton or canvas, generally available in khaki, navy, and olive drab, and sometimes even made from the surplus material from the war effort.  They sported multiple large patch pockets for any necessary cargo, making them easy to mend if ripped, and were fitted with durable metal fasteners, large reinforced belt loops, and a metal utility clip for the all important pocket knife, a boys best friend.  These camp shorts quickly became a favorite among the baby boom generation and were available from every mail order catalogue and department store.

just say no to cargo shorts

Camp shorts fell out of vogue with their evolution into the billowing cargo shorts of the 80’s and 90’s but, luckily today the original slim cut easy to wear patterns are being reproduce in new and interesting fabrics.  There is a whole range of different camp shorts from the original less then flattering cuts that are still sold today here, to the more modern interesting ones that Complex pulled together here.

the Steven Alan incarnation of the modern camp short

I actually found mine at Urban Outfitters for a song and a dance and the fit is exactly what I was looking for.  So keep your eye out from some comfortable indestructable camp shorts for your sure to come spring/summer adventures.

Everyone knows that Khakis have gotten a bad wrap over the last 20 or so years.  The business casual, cubical jockeys took a once great work uniform and destroyed it in a matter of a few years.  Now, when I refer to work in this instance I mean labor for the most part.  Construction, road work, mechanics, military, and the like.  These are the origins of the chino, not the Office Space world that so many of us are stuck in.

not the worst offenders but, you get the idea

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