Oilskin (oilies) and waxed cotton clothing owe their origins to the great age of the sailing ship and the age of navigation.  Its hard to pin point exactly when oilskin techniques began but, its probably a safe bet that, in some form or another, that some rudimentary version has existed as long as sea travel.  With the invention of the compass and increasingly better maps in the late middle ages, the beginning of long distance exploration all around the world was begun.

Italianate Harbour Scene with the Monument of Ferdinand I de’ Medici at Leghorn

Sailing ships were traditionally rigged with linen sails and so, with the fabric in such abundance fishermen and sailors used it for everything.  From clothes to wadding.  At some point these professional sea folk found that by applying boiling linseed oil (from flax seed) to the linen and letting it set the linen was rendered waterproof and was excellent material for making waterproof capes.  However, the linen was heavy and the linseed oil turned yellow and stiffened over time.  Oilskin proved to be a great way to keep yourself, as well as anything else, dry in very wet environments such as the deck of a ship but, it was also difficult proved to be dangerous to make and restrictive to wear.  All the same, cloaks, chests, and document folds were all made from this versitle (and compared to leather or fur, light weight) material to protect their contents from the elements.

High-Tech Modern Oilskins in the midst of a squall

Cotton sails eventually replaced linen.   Cotton was lighter and could be woven into a tighter and stronger fabric.  It also led to lighter and stronger clothing such as oiled cotton jackets, coats and trousers.  The jackets became especially popular among fishermen who would paint them bright colors with ordinary house paint to make themselves more visible if and when they went over board.  The next major evolution came in the mid-19th century when linseed oil was replaced by parafin wax.  Parafin wax treated garments maintained their flexibility and were also breathable so condensation wouldn’t build up.  This led to more sophisticated garments providing the wearer with significantly more movement and utility.  Although the cut, style, and technology in waterproofing changed over the centuries the need for men of the sea to be easily seen in a squall stayed consistent throughout. 

(L) Norman Rockwell’s Saturday Evening Post with a fisherman in a slicker

(R) the Gorton’s Fisherman in his Sou-Wester

When plastics and synthetic fabrics were invented in the mid-20th century traditional oilskins became obsolete.  ”Space age” technology made slickers better, lighter, easier to make, more comfortable, and infinitely customizable.  Everyone in American has the classic image of the Gordon’s fisherman from the fish sticks box or the Norman Rockwell-esk idea of the stalwart seaman battling the ocean in his bright yellow slicker.  Another advantage of modern technology is that man “professional” slickers these days include floatation devices, GPS location, built in harness, and in some cases a small tool kit.

If he can rock it so, can you

Now, of course these professional level outfits are extreme for the average person but, in the cold wet grey months ahead having a good coat to keep you dry is a must.  Having some color to brighten up your day is also never a bad thing plus, the sunshine yellow acts the same for you in the city as it does for the fishermen in the sea.  It will get you noticed.  Don’t wait to long, get out there and enjoy in the rain in style.

Here in Portland, spring is usually quite a wet season.  We understand rain.  Just like the Sami people of northern Europe who have literally hundreds of words to describe snow, we here in the northwest have more ways to say its raining then you could shake a stick at.  So, on those spring days when its not cold enough to pull out the parka but its pouring so hard the streets look more like rivers, the Mack is about as perfect as it gets.

the Mack also known as that jacket Tintin wears

Mr. Charles Macintosh was no fashion designer, in fact he was a professional clerk and a science hobbiest, today we would probably call him an engineer.  Either way he is responsible for an innovation that changed the clothes we wear forever.  In 1823, while experimenting with rubber he stumbled upon the world’s first completely waterproof textile.  He found that by sandwiching liquid rubber between two layers of wool fabric the resultant material was entirely sealed, preventing any water from seeping through.  Macintosh called his invention “rubberized cloth” and soon founded a company to produce and develop waterproof versions of traditional British outerwear.  The result being the, at the time, unimaginable combination of being able to be comfortable, presentable and dry all at the same time.  The company found amazing success in the rain soaked UK.

(L) Mackintosh cutting room (R) Mr. Charles Macintosh himself

In 1830, Charles Macintosh and Co. merged with Thomas Hancock, a Manchester based inventor who was also studying rubberized materials.  Although the early jackets had problems with smell, stiffness, and a tendency to melt in hot weather, the combined talents of the two lead to the discovery of vulcanized rubbers in 1843 perfecting their, in comparison, rudimentary naptha rubber all weather jackets.  Mackintosh (note the addition of the ‘K’) became the official supplier of the British Army, railways, and police department and continued to produce their rubberized jackets throughout the 19th and 20th century but by that point the original patent’s had expired and nearly every company on the planet had a version of the “mack coat.”

Now a days all Mackintosh garments are made using their famous rubberised cotton fabric that is put through a patented welt, seal and coating process. Furthermore, backing tape is placed behind all seams to ensure complete waterproofing, and all pockets and linings are glue fixed and hand finished in their Scottish factory.  Yes, the real thing has gotten very expensive but, its been around so long that there are more copies then you can shake a fist at.  You can find them in just about every color and vary massively in price.  Look for one that doesn’t play to much with the original.  Its simplicity is what makes it.  Slant pockets, hidden buttons, and a high collar in a nice neutral color will last you a life time.

(L) Bonobos (R) Mackintosh x Epaulet

I know Valet beat me to it but, this was written a week ago, I have just been tracking pictures so, I don’t care. Plus this time of year, its the right thing to do. In many parts of the US “parka” has become the all encompassing term for winter coat.  If it keeps you warm and dry a “parka” it is.  But, as has been the way of this blog, that is not the beginning.

group of Nenets women in their seal pelt parkas. via

The word parka traces back to the Nennets language spoken by the nomadic people of the same name native to the tundras of northern Russia.  It was brought into the English lexicon in 1625 by Samuel Purchas in his Hakluytus Posthumus (at least partially a continuation of Richard Hakluyt’s Principle Navigation) a four-volume collection of poorly curated travel stories and discoveries from various explorers of the time.  Back then these “ethnic costumes” would have been seen as little more then an oddity to most of the English speaking world but, polar explorers used the knowledge of the local tribes to stay alive on their journeys into the unknown.  One of these secrets was how to fend off the cold and wind while still retaining enough movement to work.  The early explorers did as the natives, full pelt suits with hoods cut to fit the wearer.

Admiral Robert Peary (L) first credited with reaching the north pole and Roald Amundsen (R) discoverer of the south pole — two of the great moments of the “Heroic Age” of Antarctic exploration around the turn of the century

In 1945, the U.S. Army Air Force issued the Type N-3 heavy jacket for aircrew, the first of a long line of very successful N-3 style parkas.  By 1950 the US Air Force was split from the Army and the N-3 became the N-3A with a USAF blue shell.  The N-3 evolved into the N-3B by 1958, described as “for aircrew members in extremely cold environments,” designed as it was for temperatures down to −60 °F (~-50 °C).  The N-3B was a single breasted, four pocket, 3/4 length parka with an outer layer of nylon twill (typically sage green), insulated with a layer of wool pile fabric and lined with nylon cloth and a fur-trimmed, mouton lined hood.  The N-3B gained the nickname, “snorkle” because of how the hood could be zipped all the way up to eye level leaving only a small opening (the snorkel) to look out from.  It made for extremely complete coverage in cold weather, especially when worn with goggles but, made for problems with peripheral vision.

Arctic Survival Training Course, Eielson AFB, Alaska. Airmen sporting the N-3B, 2007

(L) Thule AFB, Greenland, 1953.  (R) Barksdale AFB, LA, 1960

Like most useful things the military issues, the N-3B parka soon made its way to the civilian market.  Surplus stores as well as knock-off brands were abundant.  Snorkle coats even became a sort of fad in the UK during recession and boom in unemployment at the beginning of the Thatcher era.  These days, although the shape hasn’t changed very much, the technology has.  With synthetics, chemical treatments and new technics the classic parka can be and has been made lighter, stronger, and warmer, not to mention available in any combination of colors you can imagine.  There are some things that don’t change though, goose down is super light and extremely warm, there are few substitutes for fur, and coverage is key.  So, instead of being cold this winter, think military and find yourself the version that best fits you whether its dead stock vintage surplus or brand new, high tech, North Face extreme.

Flannel has always had a somewhat split personality throughout history.  One leg in the world of blue collar, while the other stands in beautiful simplicity.  Many people know flannel for its brightly colored plaid side made popular by loggers and outdoors men around the turn of the century but, what many people don’t know is that flannel is simply a soft napped fabric woven from loosely spun yarn, the name itself doesn’t imply any color or pattern whatsoever.  Although flannel can be made from almost any fiber, good flannels tend to be made of cotton or wool with some synthetics these days.

(L) Timberworks Lumberjack Show owner and MC, Dave Weatherhead, in his plaid flannel. a real lumberjack (R) the real man in the gray flannel suit from theSartorialist.com

Since around the time of the industrial revolution flannel has been the fabric of choice for winter wear and linings at every level.  Everyone knows the classic image of the lumberjack in his red plaid flannel shirts and suspenders.  In the 60’s The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit was the impitomy of the average business man.  Most football and baseball uniforms were made of flannel all the way through the 60’s.  And we all know how in the early 90s, oversized plaid flannel had a stint in the lime light with the grunge movement.  For over a century people have used flannel as a liner in jackets and pants for the extra warmth.

Robert Redford in The Natural in his flannel New York Mets uniform

In reality, flannel is a very practical fabric.  It is relatively lightweight for the amount of heat it holds, it is easily washable (in cotton), its durable, and can be dyed any number of patterns or colors.  These days plaid flannel has been coming back in a big way but, it much trimmer more tailored cuts, taking it from grunge to fashion over night.  Of course you can still get the bright red, yellow, and blue plaid shirts that are the trademark of the outdoorsman but, there is also the classic flannel suit in a much more modern shape as well as more casual winter office wear in flannel trousers.  Although every mens wear outfit seems to be making good flannel this season some good options are, Lands End Canvas, Rugby, Pendleton, and on the low end Pacsun.  Its amazing you can find them at any price point.  If your really hard up there’s even Good Will.  Just remember the rules of fit and you will be stylin’ all winter.

The peacoat has been recognizable around the world for nearly three centuries now with very few changes from its original design.  Starting as a hard wearing seaman’s jacket in northern Europe the coat quickly gained in popularity among laborers in cold climates as it moved from port to port.  The actual word peacoat was derived from the name of the original 30-ounce wool cloth, pij, that the Dutch used to construct the hearty jacket.  The Dutch called their jackets “pijjjakker” or “pijjecker,” which in English means roughly “jacket of pij.”  Like most things of the sea, the jacket evolved and moved along trade routes through out the 18th century and was adopted by the British Royal Navy in the early years of the 1800s in turn spreading to the newly formed navy of the United States of America, which took much of its inspiration for its royal parentage throughout the 19th century.

(L) US Navy, c. 1870 (R) British Royal Navy officer c.1900

Eventual the English pronunciation of the Dutch pijjjakker took hold with the “pea jacket” becoming one of the most popular coats in history.  When it was finally adopted into the official uniforms of the US Navy toward the end of the 19th century they were being made from melton wool.  Melton wool is tightly woven and then treated with heat and high pressure to create a very dense, wind proof fabric perfect for uniforms.  This 32-ounce melton wool jacket would be standard issue for all US Navy enlistees all the way through to the 1970’s.  All though there have been some minor changes to the design, most notably two less buttons, lighter fabric, only two pockets, and more relaxed fit, over the years the basic look of the coat as endured.  A stout, double breasted jacket, with a large collar to block the wind and big buttons that can be worked with gloves goes all the way back to the original pijjjaker.

Lone Sailor Statue. modeled on then Petty Officer 1st class Dan Maloney, the ‘typical’ sailor

Although the build quality of the Navy issue jackets has definitely gone down since the early days of the American peacoat, it has slowly but surely made its way into the main stream and can be found in almost every designer label’s collection around the world.  Today peacoats can be found in just about every fabric, color, and price but, for my money, I dont understand paying hundreds of dollars for something of inferior quality that was intended to be cheap and durable when there are hundreds of thousands of military surplus peacoats at very reasonable prices to be had.  Plus, one of the beauties of the peacoat is its simplicity.  Its all about the silhouette, not some crazy fabric.  You might say, “but, you just told us Navy issue build quality has gone down.”  To that I would respond, “true, but, here in lies the beauty of vintage.”  The original Navy issue peacoats were built so tough and became so popular during the war years that there are still many good quality very lightly used originals to be found at good prices.  Check out this post at the Fedora Lounge forum about shopping vintage peacoats for the details but, just a teaser, one highlight, corduroy lined pockets and nipped waists on the WWII era jackets.

WWII era Navy recruitment poster with a girl in an officers peacoat

One last thing to remember.  Peacoats are nice warm but, they are not formal in anyway.  Actually, they are the opposite.  Some designers are trying to dress up the peacoat but, I think it has its place and its perfect there.  With a pair of jeans and a dixie cup hat its right at home.  There is no need to throw it on over a suit.  Thats what your top coats for.  So, get yourself a simple original, flip up your collar, and explore late fall in comfort and style.

PS if your interested in any US Navy uniform history there is a great write up here

Corduroy is one of those fabrics I tend to turn to every fall.  Although I love my jeans, my corduroy is just as rugged and adds that bit of variety that some people start to lose when it starts getting to chilly for chinos.  Corduroy is believed to have originated in Manchester, England during the Industrial Revolution when textile industry was starting to move out of cottages and into mechanized factories.  As the name suggests it probably originated in Cord, then with the addition of the obsolete duroy or, a coarse woollen fabric, the name was born.  While some claim corduroy to be of French origin do to the fact the word “corduroy” looks French, as if derived from “corde du roi” (“cloth/cord of the king”), in fact there is no such phrase in French.  Actually the French call corduroy velours côtelé.  These days it is referred to by many names such as corded velveteen, elephant cord, pin cord, and Manchester cloth.  It can be easily identified by the telltale parallel ‘cords’ or ‘wales’ that run up and down the material and exhibit the softness that some describe as velvet with ridges.

Before the industrialization of textile manufacturing in the late 18th century most fabric was made on a very small scale by individual craftsmen.  With the development of mechanisims to process fibers like cotton as well as the ‘flying shuttle loom’ development of rapidly growing cash crops exploded across the western world.  With all of these technological developments production of good quality, hard wearing, cheap work clothes became a staple in English society and cotton took its place as one of the most popular fabrics in the world.  Since cotton made such durable and easy to maintain fabric things like drill, canvas, and corduroy became popular work wear for the various seasons.  It is such a strong fabric that it was even issued as part of military uniforms in the mid-19th century in the form of pants, a jacket and a vest during the Carlist War in Spain.  The Aduaneros or customs officers on the boarders of the Spanish state wore these uniforms with their blue beret, alpargatas, a sort of light sandal made of hemp, a grey cloak and a flesh-colored corset armed with a simple carbine, to collect duties and restrict imports.

(L)(a) Cuerpo de Aduana, Fall 1836 (b) Lancero de la Caballeria, Guipúzcoa, Spain 1835 (R) French bohemians at the turn of the century. corduroy pants and canvas smocks

Outside of the military context corduroy fabric had been used for young mens fashion as well as work clothes for centuries before denim became the popular work wear in Europe and North America.  Its durability and warmth made it ideal as hard wearing fall, winter and early spring wear in Europe and the colonies.  It became known as “the poor man’s velvet” since it was used by workers, artists and students and had the same fluffy pile of the fustian family or textiles.  The comfortable and stylish fabric became a staple of English country wear among nobles who split their time between a country estate and their townhouse.  Corduroy gave a soft, sturdy, and warm alternative to the delicate wools of finely tailored Saville Row suits and could still be tailored into respectable clothes for hunting and general pastoral living.  It wasn’t until the 20th century when universities started to do away with scholars robes for daily use that these comfortable and casual but, still elegant looks made their way to campus which might be were they were most iconic.  Students and professors would wear there jackets and pants until they were threadbare and simply cover the bare spots on the elbows with leather patches.  Today people buy jackets with the patches already attached but, they were their for a reason at one point.

(L) corduroy, tweed, and a rep tie a British staple. ready for the quail hunt (R) working man look from Polo Rugby

Corduroy was originally made with a cotton and linen blend but, nowdays most manufacturers of corduroy use some synthetic component like lycra with the cotton to help the corduroy keep its shape and keep a softer hand, in doing so they have destroyed much of this historic fabrics rugged edge.  It is now often used by designers for more sophisticated clothing although it can still be found being used for work wear in some parts of the world.  With the heavy trad movement these days any historic look like this can be pushed to extremes but, corduroy will always be a great go to in the colder months. Try putting the jeans aside and pulling on the corduroy.  Same idea as always, if it fits, your set or you can add a corduroy jacket with your jeans to make up a comfy up scale look.  Play with it, corduroy is the opposite of stuffy and if you really get into the wale look there’s even a Corduroy Appreciation Club.  There is going to be a big event in NYC on the date that most resembles the fabric itself November 11 this year (11/11/11) so, get your wales out, its going to be quite a party. 

The M-1965 or M65 field jacket is simply the latest in a long succession of attempts to keep troops comfortable and protected in a variety of hostile climates.  As the name suggests the M65 was introduced into US military service in 1965 at the beginning of the escalation of the Vietnam War.  It was a further improved version of the M-1951 which replaced the World War II field jacket, the M-1943.

(from top to bottom) original M-43, M-51, and M-65 field jackets.  you can see the slight changes over the years

These jackets all had a few things in common.  Tough durable material, some degree of water resistance, a collar that could be turned up to block the elements and plenty of pocket space for gear.  Although popularized by American GIs and icons such as Ernest Hemingway this jacket was in no way an American invention.

Ernest Hemingway with his fourth and final wife Mary after killing something in his bush jacket

Throughout the 1800’s the European powers engaged in a race to map, explorer and colonize the deepest darkest parts of Africa.  People like Dr. David Livingstone, Henry Stanley and many other equally successful adventurers spent much of the 19th century spreading religion throughout untracked sections of African territory mapping new areas all the way.  These intrepid men knew that in the heat of the African bush one had to dress appropriately but, a gentlemen still wouldn’t be caught out doors with out his jacket.  The men developed light weight jackets cut from cotton and linen that had been dyed in khaki brought back from the British Raj.  These jackets had four large pockets for carrying various gear and were generally belted to support extra utility and better fit.  These bush jackets, as they came to be known, were so well designed and loved in the colonies that the British government incorporated them into the offical field uniform of the British Army starting in 1897.  The light weight and tan color made them ideal for tropical war zones and harder to soil then the older brightly colored wool uniforms of the old European empires.  Soon, similar jackets were incorporated into the uniforms of many of the major military forces around the world, including that of the good ol’ US of A.

(L) Dr. David Livingstone in Africa in the late 19th century wearing a makeshift precurser to the field jacket (R) British troops prepared for the Second Boer War in their new field uniforms, c. 1900

The field jacket took the elements that worked best from the original bush jackets and tried to improve upon them as the needs changed.  The M-43 incorporated a drawstring waist, doing away with the belt, and an attachable cotton pile liner for cold weather conditions.  The M-51 further improved the jacket by treating the fabric so as to repel water and adding a detachable hood.  Finally, the M-65 built the hood into the jacket making it stowable in a pouch on the back of the neck giving easy access as well as upgrading the liner to include a warmer synthetic pile.

The M-65 jacket became iconic with the Vietnam War but, it also became a symbol of the counter culture.  It was such a utilitarian design that even the protesters couldn’t deny its utility and with the jackets flooding the market through surplus stores and second hand shops with the ramp up in production for the war they were easy to get at very low prices.

Vietnam War protesters in fatigues

Of course militaria has always made its showing on the runways and fashion shows.  It works for the same reason it works for soldiers, functional pieces look good for their function.  The same reason why basics are sometimes the best thing you can have.  These days every major mens wear manufacturer has dabbled in the field jacket world.  One can find them at any price range and every level of luxury.  From bargain basement surplus to haute couture, its all about making sure it stays functional and fits.  Jackets like this are perfect for fall and spring because they are infinitely layerable.  I really like the ones below from J.Crew but, a lot of that has to do with the fact that they fit me really well.  So, go out and get yourself a modern, vintage, surplus, custom field jacket and where it like its meant to be worn.  On a great adventure.

(L) Safari Jacket from Berretta (R) J.Crew Fatigue jacket 

The first Harrington-style jackets were made by brothers John and Isaac Miller, the founders of the Baracuta company, in 1937 in the town of Stockport, England outside Manchester.  The relatively simple jacket with its stand-up collar two pocket design made it endlessly adaptable to color and situation.  A year after the original jacket was made the Miller brothers sought and received permission from the Fraser Clan chief, Brigadier Simon Christopher Joseph Fraser, to use the now iconic Fraser Tartan in their growing company.  The Baracuta company has now been continually operating for over 70 years under the Fraser Tartan and continues to make the same jacket that started it all, the G9.

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Named for the town in Belgium where the material of the same name originated, the Duffle Coat has been a tradition in the UK since the late 19th century.  It owes its modern popularity to the fact that they were issued to British Royal Navy officers during WWI and WWII in a camel color.  Like most things, after the war there were large surpluses of unissued coats which made it onto the civilian market for cheap.  These long 3/4 length coats with their toggle straps became a staple at British universities and eventually made their way across the pond to the ivy league schools of the US.

Winter comes around and a good heavy coat is always on the mind.  I have yet to find one that I like the fit of but, a classic duffle coat will be mine someday.  I have an idea of the look that I like and I plan to make my own version in a heather grey felt as soon as I get my sewing machine back up and running.

via

The problem with the Topman version is that it seems, at least from the picture, to be a bit short and I would prefer rope and wood toggles to the black leather.  Otherwise I like the look and feel of it.  The picture below is just a classic duffle, the proportions are perfect.