A lot of boys first pocket knives came as gifts from grandpas or dads, sometimes uncles or brothers many times against the best wishes of mothers.  In any case, the pocket knife is an indispensable tool for the growing young man and is an emblem of his burgeoning manhood, an invitation to the fraternity of man.  I remember getting my first Swiss Army knife from my uncle when I was young and all the adventures it helped me through as well as all the trouble it helped me stir up.  I have it still to this day, worn but, still ready for action.

Folding knives of many different designs have been around for thousands of years.  The oldest found to date is nearly 2600 years old.  Although it was simple, a bone handle and a single iron blade, it was the beginning of long history of innovation.  The origins of the modern Swiss Army knife lay with the Romans.  The old empire was renowned for its metal workers and many different versions of multi-facetted tools have been found throughout the Mediterranean including everything from knives, spikes, forks, and spoons in a handheld package.  You can imagine how, for a legion on the move, a pocket knife could come in handy all the time.  Sadly, the skills to develope a working multi-function pocket knife were lost in Europe during the dark ages so, although many people carried swords, daggers or other sharp edged implements very few if any pocket knifes were available.

Roman army knife from 200 AD.  Made of silver with an iron blade it has a fork, knife, spoon, spatula, and a spike.

A post-n-groove knife call the Navaja has been a popular choice in Spain since the 15th century.  It made a distinct clicking sounds when opened and closed which became its trademark.  The only other pocket knife available until the 18th century was  a heavy crude tool known as the Jack Knife.  it wasn’t until the 18th century when the Sheffield knife-makers designed and built what is widely recognized as the first modern pocket knife.  The Sheffield pen knife became de rigueur among the educated set who used it to, of course, cut the nibs of their quills.

the year knife, mid-1970s

In 1822 as a display of their craft, Joseph Rodgers and Sons Ltd. of Sheffield debuted their Year Knife with 1,822 blades to mark the date.  It was designed to have another blade added to it every year until the end of the millennium in 2000 when the knife would finally be finished with its 2000th blade, ending, of course, far to large for anyones pocket.  The firm went on to create the Norfolk Sportsman’s Knife in 1851 which took two full years in production and ended up with 75 blades.  These two examples seem pretty extreme but, they show the level of innovation in the world of folding knives in the mid-19th century.  By 1893 an American cutlery catalogue had over 1,500 pocket knives listed for sale showing exactly how popular they had become.  but, it wasn’t until 1897 when a man by the name of Karl Elsener decided there was no good reason for the Swiss Army to be buying its knives from Germany that the most popular and recognizable knife in the world today got its start.  The red body and silver crossed shield have become the standard for modern pocket knives.

1891 Swiss Army soldier knife

Pocket knives have also been an essential tool for soldiers throughout American history.  New York and new Hampshire required their militias to carry pocket knives during the American Revolution.  Even George Washington toted one around as he led his troops.  The U.S. Navy began issuing them to sailors during the Civil War and they became standard issue for all American GIs during WWII.

Although in the first half of the 20th century pocket knives were popular among young boys and many carried them around in their pockets or ruck sacks always prepared for the occasional whittle or game of mumblypeg (a knife game that involves throwing a knife into the ground as close to your opponents foot as possible without hitting them), public concern quickly arose over children’s safety and knives were deemed unsuitable.  As the century continued adolescents who still did carry knives gained a progressively more negative reputation especially with the rise of gang violence in the urban areas.

Boy Scouts playing mumbly peg

Today, it seems that we have hit a fork in the road you could say.  One side lead to more and more authoritarian control and heavy security measures such as the Bureau of Homeland Security or any international airport and the other leads to peoples interest to become more self sufficient and seeing things like pocket knives as tools as opposed to weapons.  In my humble opinion, if a boy is old enough to be in Cub Scouts, he’s old enough to get his first knife but, with great power comes great responsibility so, with these young’n’s there must be a few ground rules and it has to be approached delicately.

Rule #1:  Make it the first gift.  Of course a boy is going to be excited when he gets his first knife so, make it the first gift and wrap the snot out of subsequent gifts so that he can demonstrate his instant manliness by allowing him to test out his new prize.

Rule #2:  Casually have an old black of wood or a stick conveniently lying in the room. “What’s that stick doing mom?” “Oh, that stick? Oh, i was just rearranging a few things, and… who wants another piece of cake?”  Let the whittling commence.

Rule #3:  Have a special place.  The problem isn’t cutting off a finger, it’s finding the knife.  This is an excellent time to start the “it’s your personal belonging-don’t ask me where it is!” rule.

and of course…

Rule #4:  Only use it with Mom & Dad around… at least for now.  One day, there will be independence with this great gift but, that time is not now.

a boy whittling a boat

All that being said, a nice pocket knife can be a great gift for anyone no matter the age but, how do you decide what to get.  Pocket knives can be broken down into three major types.  The jack knife is simple and sturdy with just a single hinge where as a pen knife has two hinges one on either end.  The term pen knife is also used to describe a very small two hinge knife that could be worn without ruining the line of your suit but, for our purposes two hinges is the important thing and finally the multipurpose knife is more or less the standard today, it boasts many different tools not simply just knives and it’s what made the Swiss Army knife famous.  Within each category there are many different varieties some of which I have displayed below.

the Trapper, a type of jack knife generally with two blades.  A clip and a spey blade

L-R Whittler, Stockman, and Congress, all types of pen knives.  The Whittler is characterized by its three blades.  The Stockman is generally distinguished by its sowbelly shape (kind of like an S) and a clip, sheep’s foot, and spey blade.  The Congress is marked by its convex front and four blades.   *the above knives are all from CRKT classics

Swiss Army Fieldmaster knife

As with most things the more personal the better.  Vintage and heirloom knives are fantastic.  I am personally a big fan of engravings and hand made things.  With a little effort its not all that more expensive to have something made custom as opposed to buying from a store. Finally one of the greatest things about pocket knives is that if you take care of them they will last a lot longer then you and somebody else will see that engraving one day and wonder about the story behind it.  You become a part of the legend of that knife.

Giving an elegant writing instrument as a gift as a sign of academic and personal appreciation and respect is an old tradition. It doesn’t get more personal than gifting a beautiful item that you use daily, carry on top of your heart, hold in your hand and is the vehicle of your inner most thoughts and emotions.  In the old days, a nice pen would be a common gift for graduates, professionals and academics.  A person might receive a pen from a loved one, a co-worker or a boss and carry it, that perfect pen, for a lifetime.  In many cases using and holding onto that one or maybe two, if their lucky, perfect pens, eventually passing them down to the next generation.  As with many things, depending on the circumstances, a nice used or vintage pen coming from the right person can mean more than a brand new one ever could. Now, even though writing by hand is becoming less and less common, take it from me, there is nothing like writing with a quality instrument to motivate you to use it.  Plus, your friend will think of you each and every time they pick it up, how many gifts can boast that.

(L) 1867 patent for the original Fountain Pen (R) 1725 The Bookkeeper by Van Dijk

To start, a little history.  Written language has been around for almost 7,000 years.  For the first few millennia people wrote with sticks, stones, or hard chisels which they used to scratch clay, stone, or metal slabs.  There is evidence from about 2500 BC in Egypt of pens made from reeds and simple inks.  Scribes would write on bark or papyrus using a carved reed mostly recording matters of trade or politics.  The reeds were adopted by the greeks and romans as they conquered more territory.  As the Roman empire expanded further into Europe they had difficulty obtaining reeds but, they found that goose feathers, which were plentiful, when cut, could be used just as well as the reeds of old.  From then the Quill became the primary writing medium in the western world for more then 1600 years.  By the 19th century technology had sufficiently advanced to where, within 100 years, metal pens, fountain pens, and ballpoint pens would all become readily accessible. 

So, you’ve decided to give someone a pen.  How do you decide what to get?  A good place to start is to figure out what kind of pen would suit that person best.  In the end if they don’t like the way it writes it will become a glorified paper weight.
There are three basic choices: Fountain Pens, Ball Point Pens, and Roller Ball Pens, with many sizes and varieties of each.

(clockwise) mechanical pencil, ball point pen, fountain pen, and a roller ball pen

• Fountain pens are the original portable reliability pen.  They were developed in the mid-19th century borrowing the split gold nib from the earlier dip pens and adding a reservoir to hold the water-based ink delivered through the body of the pen across the nib and onto your page.  The way the nib on a fountain pen lays ink to paper is unique to the shape of each nib as well as the pressure and hand writing of each individual making it a very expressive writing tool.
  
• Ball point pens like your standard disposable, were perfected by a pair of Argentinean brothers by the name of Bíró in 1941 and sold to the RAF during WWII.  For writing on a variety of surfaces and under varying atmospheric pressures the ball point pen with its heavier ink was far superior to the fountain pens of the past.  Ball points use an internal chamber filled with an oil based viscous ink which is dispensed at the tip over a small ball bearing making it much more versatile, long lasting, and more reliable in adverse situation then the old water based ink and gravity fed systems.
• Roller ball pens take the same ball bearing mechanisim that the ball points use but, with a smaller ball and a liquid ink instead of the slow oil based kind.  They were introduced in the early 1960s by the Japanese Ohto company as a cross between fountain pens and ball points.  Combining the ease of use of a ball point with the smooth fluid hand of fountain pens.  The smaller bearing, which was necessary with the less viscous ink, also always for a finer, cleaner line then the rudimentary ball points.

The easiest way to narrow it down is to look at what kind of pens the recipient already uses.  Although, in many cases today, this may be the first none-disposable pen this person has ever had.  In that case think about his or her profession and what you imagine them using there pen for; Lawyers and Teachers tend to write long hand extensively in which case a roller ball may be a good choice, Doctors tend to be constantly moving and writing short quick notes, maybe a long lasting ball point would be best, Buisness men and Bankers tend to use there pens mostly for signatures and personal notes so, maybe a fountain pen would fit best.  As you can see it really comes down to use and preference.  Im going to focus on fountain pens but, many things are the same between the three designs.

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There are a lot of iconic watches out there with brands holding storied histories that reach far back into an era of craftsmanship and handmade specifications.  Cartier is indeed in this elite group.  It in fact produced the very first wristwatch for men, the ‘Santos’ but, thats for another time.

Although many brands have a long history, most of their timepieces do not.  They are made to fit a need and become exquisite pieces of engineering in the process.  This is one of the many reasons we love them but, the watch I bring to you today is different.  It tells the story of a time in war torn Europe.

Louis Cartier, who had turned Cartier into one of the best selling watch companies in Europe, had a front row seat to the Great War.  France being the front line in the west, the Allies and their machinery were a normal sight all through out the war.  As the war continued and the Renault FT-17 light-tank became the standard for quick effective assault and Louis Cartier soon became inspired by the shape of these game changing machines.

The FT-17 with its long rectangular body and tall rotating turret became the inspiration for one of Cartier’s most iconic and best selling watches. The Tank.

The watch, released the same year that production of the FT-17 was building, 1917 toward the end of the war, mimiced the shape of the tank from a birds eye view.  With its blue bladed hands and crocodile bracelet gave a new look to what a watch could be.  The face has always had roman numerals and as Cartier’s signature the crown is set with a sapphire.

(L) original Cartier Tank 18k gold c. 1930    (R) Cartier Tank platinum with bladed hands c. 1960s

The watch was so connected with the Allied victory on the western front in Louis Cartier’s mind that when the war was over he presented General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force with the prototype that would go into production later that year.

The Cartier Tank has been in continual production ever since with very minimal changes.  Although, there are variations on the original theme I think the first design from 1922 has an elegance that hasn’t been matched often in both form and history.  On top of all that, Im pretty sure this is one of the most amazing and over looked watches still available out there.  I mean you always hear about Rolex or TAG or Patek or Omega but, Cartier is seen as a jewelry company and I think this watch would make a statement among all those divers.  Now, just to find the money…

Up till now, most of the man gift suggestions I have brought up on here have been of the type that a man probably wouldn’t buy for himself but, would enjoy having.  This has a hint of the same idea but, takes it in a different direction.  It came out of a conversation I had with a good friend a few months back.  In this age of e-mail, texting, smart phones, and skype the idea of writing a letter by hand or having hard copies of photos almost seems barbaric but, think back to the last time you received a letter or postcard in the mail from some one.  There’s still something special about the effort that goes into it.  Anyone can send out an email or facebook message on your birthday but, a physical letter is exciting.

Its one of the simplest gifts one can give but, it can also mean the world.  Throughout the 20th century GI’s have carried pictures of their best girl for luck, going as far as to name their planes after them and painting likenesses of them on the side.  People carry pictures in their wallets and have framed pictures on their desks. A picture or a note can make a hostile place more comfortable on those inevitable hard days.  Plus we are by nature a prideful bunch and love to show off.  What better way then with a picture of the beautiful girl back home.

War is an extreme example but, the same applies to long days in the office or hiking trips.  Bear Grylls listed in the ten things he never leaves home without a picture of his wife and kids with a note that he keeps in his boot.  When it comes down to it we are very resilient as long as we keep our head in whatever we are doing and sometimes a picture and a few simple words can remind us why we’re there.

One last thing.  When I say a picture I don’t mean a printed version of a shot from some party you put on facebook.  The key is it’s special.  It’s not for everyone, it’s for that special person.  In that way anything can be meaningful.  The Art of Manliness, which partially inspired this post, has given a new years challenge to its readers, 52 love letters in 52 weeks.  Follow the link for more info but, if you have that special someone in your life I challenge you to participate.  Whats the worst that could happen?

Cuff links originated in France during the reign of King Louis XIV.  Under Louis XIV the royal court was moved to the Palace of Versailles and subsequently became known for the lavish over abundance that would eventually lead to the revolution.  But, in the early years one of the marks of French high society was the ever evolving fashions of Versailles.

 silver cufflinks believed to commemorate the wedding of King Charles II to Catherine of Braganza in 1662

One of the more practical trends that has survived are cuff links or boutons de manchette as they were called.  Literally, “sleeve buttons,” these links tended to be simple colored glass buttons linked by a short chain.  Although these, boutons de manchette, were de rigueur at Versailles, the ruffles and ornaments on both the sleeves and the jackets were so over the top that the simple little buttons could be easily missed.

variety of tied silk links. these days silk knots are sometimes free when you buy a nice french cuff shirt.

As the innovations of the industrial revolution took their hold and the over the top styles of the 16th century were simplified, cuff links became more prominent as an expression of a mans personality on his sleeve.  Then in the 1880’s in America, George Krementz patented a device based on a civil war cartridge shell-making machine that could mass produce one-piece collar buttons and cufflinks. Suddenly every US business was commissioning cufflinks for advertising or as gift incentives for clients. 

(L) various types of cuff links (R) white tie occasion statement cuff links

These days cuff links are anything but required but, for the style set they are a good wet to set themselves apart since they are one of the few pieces of jewelry that men can pull off.  It’s sometimes said that a man should never buy his own cufflinks, but that they should always be gifts meant to mark an occasion. This is surely a custom that harkens back to the cufflink’s medieval history, to the time when they were made almost exclusively as items meant to commemorate royal affairs.  Although most of us go to very few formal events these days let alone royal affairs these small links can be as personal as any ring and make for great gifts.  Either monogramed or with pictures, there are so many different kinds of cuff links you can find something for anyway.  If you are really interested in the history of cuff links the Cufflink Museum in Conway, New Hampshire, is the place to go, they proudly displays over 70,000 pairs from throughout history.

The Dopp Kit has its origins in Chicago after the Great War.  A German immigrant by the name of Charles Doppelt made his way as a leather craftsmen and so, around 1919 he designed a handy leather toiletry case with a waterproof liner that could be easily cleaned.  The goal was to make a small, extremely durable bag that would give easy access to all the things a man might need while still being quickly and efficiently storable.  The result was a bag remarkably similar to the one we use today, a testament to the original design.  The original Dopp was a rectangular box with an open top, for easy access, and a reinforced bottom.  When the top was folded down it would hold everything inside in place and zip closed with a heavy duty zipper.

original WWII issue GI Dopp Kit with mirror inserts c. 1940

These bags, nick named Dopps after its inventer, were so useful that Doppelt was awarded a military contract to make Dopp Kits to be given as standard issue for GIs throughout World War II.  After the war, like most things GI’s encountered while serving, Dopp Kits exploded in popularity as well as availability.  By the 1960’s mens toiletry kits in the same vein as the Dopp were available in every shape, size, color, and material.  Although Doppelt’s company was bought out by Samsonite in the early 70’s the name stuck and Dopp kits are still widely available around the world.

(L) leather Dopp kit from Florence, Italy. “The Bridge” (R) my dads vintage Lacoste Dopp

It seems that Dopp kits have dropped of the public radar in the last twenty years or so but, I would be willing to bet if you went in your dads closet he has his sitting just waiting for the next trip.  Especially now, in an age where your toiletries are inspected every time you take a flight it makes sense to have everything safely in one place.  Dopp kits even used to be a popular gift for young men coming of age.  Usually filled with all the necessary accoutrements of being a man.  Im sure many men received their first safety razor, cologne, and pack of condoms in a bag very similar to the dopp.

(L) Elvis & Kresse Fire Hose bag (R) Jack Spade Tarpaulin Dry Dopp 

My recommendation is to stick with the classic leather or canvas and leather combination but, if you are into a little flash or something different I have a couple for you.  First from the UK, the lifestyle company Elvis & Kresse has gone and made a traditionally shaped Dopp out of retired fire hose.  They are bright orange and indestructible and obviously waterproof.  Second, Jack Spade came out with a Tarpaulin Dopp in a few different colors.  Tarpaulin is the material that keeps all your gear safe and dry in a dry bag when your on the river so, you know its water proof and tough as nails.  Both are interesting options with a classic shape so, if you are going to stray there are some places to go.  Now, next time your nephew or cousin has a bar mitzvah or graduates from scouts you have a good plan for an classic, interesting gift.

vintage Dopp found still packed c. 1960

There is only one more thing to deal with.  What do you put in your Dopp?

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Its getting close to gift giving time and as if buying things for the people you love wasn’t hard enough there are white elephant parties, office pools, and work gatherings where gifts for near strangers are sometimes expected.  In these instances you don’t necessarily know who you are buying for or there taste.  This can make things very difficult, especially if you don’t want to be that guy who buys the gag gift, or the one who walks in with an unwrapped bottle of Jack.  Although there may be a time and place for things like that there are some good stand bys that make for great gifts no matter who is receiving.

(L) Calvin Klein monotone ribbed scarf (R) Moncler tricolor ribbed scarf

One of the great things about scarves this time of year is that they are useful and most people don’t buy them for themselves.  They also come in just about every shape, size, color, style, and most importantly price range.  Most people have at least one simple fine gauge wool scarf in their closet from some relative as well as a hand knit one from the girlfriend who loved to knit or grandma, I know I definitely have both but, I have also found myself always going back to my trusty old ribbed scarf.

collegiate scarf straight from thestyleblogger

The ribbed scarf is exactly what it sounds like, a scarf knit with ribs which gives it lots of stretch for extra comfort.  Those ribs also add mass without adding to much weight meaning a light weight scarf that can hold lots of heat.  Generally more textural things are seen as more casual so, its easy to wear with jeans and a sweater or do the opposite and dress it up with a suit for a bit of contrast.  Personally, I really like scarves.  Scarves are like the casual winter version of the tie.  Don’t get me wrong, I do love ties and they are as good in winter as they are in summer but, a scarf can give you the opportunity for the flair and bravado of a tie but, without the stigma.

ribbed scarves in ones school colors were popular among the ivy league crowd in the 50’s and 60’s

With the prep revival in the last few years ribbed college stripe scarves have come out in force.  The dark textural colors of winter although appropriate can sometimes be a bit heavy and somber for a daily wardrobe.  A thinking person needs to find ways to bring a lightness to their cold weather look.  Along with socks, caps, and other accessories, collegiate scarves can give that punch of color that can make all the difference.

I’m getting to that age where I am getting two or three wedding invitations from friends a year and where everyone I know seems to be either married, on track to getting hitched, or in some sort of linear long term relationship.  One of the oldest traditions in human society is celebrating lasting relationships.  My parents just celebrated their 30 year anniversary in May with a trip to the tropics.  Every culture has had there own was marking these special occasions over the millennia and today the prevailing custom is gifts on the day of the annual anniversary.  So, in light of some up coming nuptials which I am sadly 10,000 miles to far to get to, I dug into the history of anniversary gift tradition to enlighten and possibly amuse.

In the United States, the wedding anniversary symbols begin simply, with paper and flowers, and gradually increase in substance and value. The order of gifts reflects the investment that the couple gives of themselves to each other. In Germany, by comparison, couples use a list of symbols that represent the progressive  strengthening of the marriage relationship.  The practice of giving peculiar gifts on various wedding anniversaries originated in Central Europe. Among the medieval Germans it was customary for friends to present a wife with a wreath of silver when she had lived with her husband twenty-five years. The silver symbolized the harmony that was assumed to be necessary to make so many years of matrimony possible. On the fiftieth anniversary of a wedding the wife was presented with a wreath of gold. Hence arose the silver and golden anniversary.  This practice, borrowed from the Germans, has been elaborated upon in modern times.

with a growing middle class Victorian wedding etiquette became more elaborate

The modern custom of celebrating what was once referred to as the “anniversary wedding” can be traced back to the Victorian era.  Although no one is certain how the traditional list of symbolic anniversary gifts originated, it is likely that the Victorians, so fond of cataloging and classifying, were the first to adapt ancient heathen customs into a prescribed list of gifts for each wedding anniversary.  Early on only a few of the anniversaries that we recognized today were included.

well loved Etiquette book of Social Usage by Emily Post, originally published 1922

Emily Post listed “eight anniversaries known to all” in her 1922 Blue Book of Social Usage [listing 1st, 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th, 25th, 50th, and 75th anniversaries]. Mrs. Post then went on to report that “until comparatively modern times, the eight anniversaries were all that were acknowledged.” She then recognized the trend toward celebrating additonal anniversaries and listed a symbolic anniversary gift for each of the first fifteen years of marriage and one for every five years after that. This is the basis for the lists we use today.

In 1937, the American National Retail Jeweler Association used this history to issue a more comprehensive list, which associated precious materials for each anniversary year up to the 20th and then each fifth year after that up to the 75th bringing people into their shops on an annual basis.  The way they presented it to Americans is that stability deserves a reward and the more stability the greater the reward should be. 

And so, without further ado, the annoted list of traditional anniversary gifts for the thoughtful couple. DISCLAIMER: This is the traditional list of gifts so, some may be inappropriate in todays modern age.  It is about the spirit of the tradition.  For things like ivory or coral maybe instead of killing something rare and beautiful, go on a trip like a safari or tropical get away.

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