29

Oct

Trophy Hunting and the Noble Savage

Since the beginning of time man has hunted beast.  For sustenance, status, and recreation, as rite, and as tradition.  Throughout much of history peopled hunted by necessity.  Before the wide spread availability of the awesome variety of meat products we enjoy access to today people either had to raised their own small herds or hunt to get any substantial amount of protein in their diet.  Our development of a vast network of food production which makes nutrition available to, theoretically, everyone (even though thats not exactly how it works in reality) is one of the prime factors in the expansion of life expectancy and growth in world wide average height over the last few thousand years.

ancient cave paintings

tomb burial paintings

Archeologists have found many artistic examples from antiquity proving exactly how highly hunting was regarded to ancient civilizations.  There are endless images of kings and deities hunting big game animals and mythological creatures to show their power and strength as leaders or warriors.  Many ancient taboos are also related to various prey and the mythos associated with them.  Some form of semi hunter-gatherer lifestyle endured all the way up until the Age of Discovery when urban growth in Europe really started to take off in a much more pronounced way.

ancient greek mosaic from tunis

Ancient greek fresco from Tunis of a hunt with lions

As hunting moved from a subsistence activity to a social one, two trends emerged. One was that of the specialist hunter with special training and equipment. The other was the emergence of hunting as a ‘sport’ for those of an upper social class.  As game became more of a luxury than a necessity, the stylized pursuit of it also became a luxury. The evolution of the word ‘game’ to include an animal that is hunted was a direct result of the development of hunting as sport.  Dangerous hunting, such as for lions or wild boars, often done on horseback or from a chariot, had a function similar to tournaments and manly sports. It was considered to be an honourable, somewhat competitive pastime to help the aristocracy practice skills of war in times of peace.  In most parts of medieval Europe this trend was enforced as law, making large tracks of land private hunting reserves for the nobles.  Poaching could be punishable by death.  These laws are where the original stories of Robin Hood began.

As the wealth of Europe grew and their colonial empires grew the aristocracy became increasingly mobil and a wealthy merchant class began to grow.  By the 19th century many of the laws regarding hunting in Europe had fallen by the wayside and so was born one of the most iconic British traditions.  The fox hunt.

Everyone has seen images of groups of many riding their horses in top hats and red coats, bugler in the midst, chasing their dogs who are hot on the tail of fox.  The fox hunt has become a largely symbolic activity but, starting as far back as the 17th century farmers were chasing foxes and killing them as pests.  As the industrial revolution came into full swing more people moved away from the country into urban environments and hunting slowly started becoming a leisure activity.  With better more accurate guns and few laws or people to enforce them out in the country, hunt clubs began to develop throughout the 19th century.  Originally the foxes were hunted because they kept killing the prized pheasants, which the hunt clubs enjoyed, but with the development of new hound breeds trained to handle the new industrialized landscape the fox hunt became a staple activity for the quality in Victorian Europe.

As travel became more luxurious and more reliable people of means with a more adventurous spirit started using their leisure time a bit differently.  Foreign tourism began in force and apart from the cultural aspects of the various colonies safaris and big game hunts began to be organized for the enjoyment of the nobles and other wealthy visitors.  These safaris were always complete with a team of trackers and local experts, usually of a local tribe, to aid in insuring the comfort and success of the tourists.  Although many tribal people were treated as less then human they were still revered for their ‘primitive skills’ such as, hunting, tracking and understand nature and the land.  This concept of the “noble savage” was developed throughout the colonial era as a way to acknowledge the skills they had but, in a subservient manner.

Roosevelt on safari

Roosevelt standing with native hunters over a dead lion while on safari in 1910

Ernest Hemingway and Teddy Roosevelt were some of the most famous big game hunters of the modern era shooting all manner of beast from atop horses, elephants, jeeps and camels.  This type of ‘trophy’ hunting, where specific animals are sought out for their beauty, rarity or ferocity to prove the prowess of the hunter gave rise to the concept of a trophy room where mementos of each kill such as mounted heads, taxidermied beasts, pelts, and furniture made from bone could be kept as a monument to their owners skill.

hemmingwayroosevelt

(L) Ernest Hemmingway with his double barrel (R) Teddy Roosevelt sitting on his felled African Buffalo

Wilbur D May Museum trophy room

The trophy room at the Wilbur D. May Museum in Rancho San Rafael Regional Park in Reno Nevada

Modern day hunting as evolved to include a bit of everything from the past.  There has been a concerted effort by some to try and move “off the grid” including growing or killing their own food.  That is an extreme example but, hunting to this day is one of the most popular sports in America.  With sustainability and animal rights on the fore front hunting ethics laid down as far back as Teddy Roosevelt have been another hot topic.  Roosevelt wrote of a concept of “fair chase.”  Simply defined, fair chase is the ethical, sportsmanlike, and lawful pursuit of free-ranging wild game animals in a manner which does not give the hunter an improper or unfair advantage over the animal.  The rules of fair chase are simple and seemingly intuitive, treat all things with the respect they deserve.  The Boone and Crockett Hunt Club put these rules in writing all the way back in the 19th century.

  • Obey all applicable laws and regulations
  • Respect the customs of the locale where the hunting occurs
  • Exercise a personal code of behavior that reflects favorably on your abilities and sensibilities as a hunter
  • Attain and maintain the skills necessary to make the kill as certain and quick as possible
  • Behave in a way that will bring no dishonor to either the hunter, the hunted, or the environment
  • Recognize that these tenets are intended to enhance the hunter’s experience of the relationship between predator and prey, which is one of the most fundamental relationships of humans and their environment

With new technology come new challenges so the Pope and Young Hunt Club have added some more guidelines to fair chase.

  • From any power vehicle or power boat
  • By Jacklighting or shining at night
  • By the use of any tranquilizers or poisons
  • While inside escape-proof fenced enclosures
  • By the use of any power vehicle or power boats for herding or driving animals, including the use of aircraft to land alongside or to communicate with or direct a hunter on the ground
  • By the use of electronic devices for attracting, locating or pursuing game or guiding the hunter to such game, or by the use of a bow or arrow or firearm to which any electronic device is attached

27

May

Gentleman's Club Swann de Berluti

It is said that the men who belong to Olga Berluti’s Swann Club polish their shoes with Venetian linen dipped in Dom Pérignon and expose them to the light of the full moon, but that is false. It is the quartermoon that is important, Berluti explains: “The moon gives transparency to leather. The sun burns; the moon burnishes.”  More about the Swann Club (named for the protagonist of Proust’sRemembrance of Things Past) later. For now, know that Olga Berluti is the creative director of, and designs handmade, exorbitantly expensive men’s shoes for, the company that bears her family name.

Olga Berluti loves men’s feet—a passion, not a fetish, she says. The passion began with her convent schooling in Italy. A long corridor led to the chapel and a 14th-century statue of Christ. “I would approach the altar,” she remembers. “The nailed feet of Christ were exactly on the same level as my eyes. I stared and stared. I said to myself: When I am older, I will remove the nails. I will relieve the suffering of men’s feet.”

Berluti, small and slight with short black hair and eyes so dark they seem to be all pupil, does not seem tethered to the ground. She lives simply, does not eat meat and does not wear leather (“My life is flesh and blood already”). She wears only natural fibers—always white. On her feet: white cotton sneakers in summer, white wool shoes in winter. She is an ascetic in a universe of extravagance. “I sublimate myself. I suffer. I have spent my life at men’s feet,” says Olga, Our Lady of Shoes.

Olga Berluti

Olga Berluti, Our Lady of Shoes

She speaks in Celtic rune and Delphic pronouncement. “Man is a vagabond deluxe. We are moving through to the perfection of gesture,” she says. So what if the utterances make little sense. We are talking mystique and shoes with the chiaroscuro of a Caravaggio. We are talking shoes with the sleek, menacing profile of a mako shark, shoes decorated with piercings, tattoos, sometimes scars. They are shoes, she says, for the hidden warrior inside every man. Shoes, also, for the man with four to twelve thousand dollars to spend on a made-to-order dream.

Her atelier, in an 18th-century building in Paris’s Marais, is a stage set. A shoemaker’s bench with rows of apothecary bottles sits in the corner. Do the bottles contain essence of sorrow? Tincture of pain? No, merely fragrant oils and dyes. The lasts—she calls them ex-votos—of Berluti’s famous clientele rest on low tables. There are lasts that belonged to Pablo Picasso (“We made his sandals”); Jean Cocteau (“He liked to wear shoes without socks”); Andy Warhol (“He asked for his right loafer to be patched—and be very visible”).

Once a year Olga Berluti invites clients to the Swann Club soiree, a black-tie affair, with champagne, not just to drink, but to clean shoes. Their annual nighttime soiree begins with a great meal, some port and cigars, and then moves to what they all came for.  After dinner, guests remove their shoes, take out their tins of wax polish, and clear the tables. With only stockings on their feet, they wrap fine Venetian linens around their fingers, dip them in Dom Perignon, and begin to shine their shoes.  ”The alcohol makes them shine, but it must be chilled; it must be a very dry, a grand champagne.” 

Berluti Swann Club dinner

Berluti Swann Club dinner, of course its black tie

In Olga Berluti’s world, the relationship between man and shoe is complex. “Shoes adopt and tame you, and you adopt and tame them, like domesticating a wild animal,” she says. “You buy a pair of shoes you adore, but they are too edgy, too avant-garde. Perhaps your wife made you buy them. You put them away, and little by little this style, this color you’re not used to seeps in. You buy a jacket that goes with them, or a different color shirt. One day, you realize you have become the man your wife envisioned. The shoes revealed something new, something unexpected in you.” 
But is not to take off one’s shoes to reveal something not so lovely, something, in fact, rather ugly—that is to say, one’s feet? The writer offers her own as an example. 
Olga Berluti does not flinch. She reaches to cradle the feet. “No, no,” she says passionately. “There are no ugly feet. Feet are spiritual. They enable man to stand up. They free his hands. Now, he can look at the stars.”

If I were being cynical, I would say the Swann Club is just a clever marketing ploy. Perhaps doubly so since LVMH conveniently owns both Berluti and Dom Perignon. If I were not, I would say it’s an event put on for enthusiasts by a woman who shares their passion. The reality, I imagine, is that it’s probably something a bit of both. The Swann Club meets intermittently in Paris and occasionally in London or New York. Businessmen, artists, captains of industry, entrepreneurs, and a few certifiable lunatics are amongst its members.  For what it’s worth, you don’t have to bring a pair of Berluti shoes to the event (or even own one), but you do have to have an obsession for well-made footwear.

Berluti polish

The grandiosity of the whole thing might sound silly to outsiders, but as a men’s style and clothing enthusiast, I must say I’m attracted to the idea. It’s a bit over the top and romantic, but so what? Those are the things that make life feel a bit less dull.

I read on Ethan Desu’s blog once that he and a friend like to get together every once a while, have some tea, chat about life, and shine their shoes for a few hours. That scale of things is equally attractive to me, if not more so. Unfortunately, except for a couple of people I’ve met in my time as a menswear writer, I don’t know anyone who shares my interest in traditional men’s clothing. Certainly not enough to shine shoes for three or four hours. So, for now, I’ll continue to shine mine alone on weekends, while listening to Bill Evans and drinking a bit of whiskey. It’s not in Paris, and I use water, not champagne, but it’s relaxing and enjoyable nonetheless. Perhaps I’ll call mine the Ephrussi Club, named after Charles Ephrussi, the man who Swann was loosely modeled after.

Berluti shine box

THE (SHOE) RULES

I - Few things make a man feel more like a man then a shoeshine before 9:00 a.m.

II - Always buy your shoes after 2:00 p.m., when your feet have swollen to their maximum measurement.

III - Cheap shoes look best in black.

20

Nov

A Gentleman’s Bar

Every gentleman needs a well stocked bar, especially this time of year.  After dinner with your friends or before going out with the ladies it pays to be able to mix a proper drink or at least a quality offer.  It doesn’t take that much to build yourself a workable bar and there are so many good bar books out there today that anyone can be a master bartender as long as they are prepared.

Now, its important to remember you don’t need to go out and splurge all at once.  Buy a bottle or two at a time, start with things that you like and build from there.  Maybe add something new whenever you have people over, even take suggestions.  There is one more thing to remember.  If you are going to be mixing there is no need to buy super high end liquor, don’t buy rot gut, but, there is no reason to break the bank.  On the other hand things you will drink straight, a la whiskey or gin, are worth having a higher end bottle on hand.

When it comes down to it, the basic necessities are vodka, tequila, gin, scotch, bourban, rye, and rum, in both the dark spiced, and light varieties.  So, thats where we’ll start.

BASIC SPIRITS

Vodka - Traditionally distilled from potato or grain mash in many of the nations of northern, central, and eastern Europe for over six hundred years.  Generally around 80 proof the best vodkas are, counter intuitively, the ones with the least taste or, usingStoli Russian vodka ad chemistry terms, the least impurities.  This means that vodka is an amazing base for flavoring and extremely clean on its own.

Stolichnaya Vodka is a good traditional vodka at a reasonable price and is good enough to be the only vodka you need.  Stoli does also make a variety of flavored vodkas but, do yourself a favor, if you are interested in any other flavor simply get another bottle and infuse it yourself.  It will be exactly what you want and taste so much fresher.

Gin - Comes in a few different varieties but, for the most part, unless your are a gin aficionado, the only one you need to know about is London dry gin.  Gin, much like
vodka, is distilled from grains to a neutral spirit but, unlike vodka gin goes through a Tanqueray gin ad 1964second distillation with the addition of juniper berries and a mix of other proprietary botanicals before being diluted to its final bottle strength of about 80 proof.  Gin is a special one because no two brands taste the same.  The only way is to try a few and pick the one that suits you the best.

Personally, I think if your going to drink gin it should taste like juniper or else what’s the point.  I like Tanqueray, it has a good balance with just enough juniper without being overwhelming and is reasonably priced. pictured 1964 ad for Tanqueray

Tequila - Made exclusively in the state of Jalisco from one hundred percent distilled blue agave Tequila is the official drink of Mexico.  Much like whisky tequila comes in various degrees of age.  Sadly, access to the best tequilas is mostly reserved to being in Mexico but, there are more and more tequila centric bars opening up across thetequila country.  So, if you have the means, a trip to Mexico is amazing and unheard of tequila will be your prize, other wise good tequila can be got on the internet just be sure to do you research first.

Tequila is one of those liquors often mixed so, if you don’t ever see yourself sipping tequila straight there is no reason to go spend a mint on a nice añejo or aged bottle but, you can still get very good blanco, white (Arette Artisanal Blanco pictured), or joven, young, tequila that is very drinkable and much more appropriate for mixing.  If you are into the aged idea, get a bottle of each and you’ll be ready for any occasion.  Be sure to keep in mind just like Scotch, there is a variety within the world of Tequila.  Tequila from the highlands tends to be sweeter with more fruit flavors whereas that from the lowlands has more of the green earthy flavors from the growing process.  Tequila has earned a bad reputation over the years mostly due to the cheap imports in the US like Jose Cuervo but, dont be fooled there is amazing tequila out there and the prices are lower then you would think.

Rum - Basically, anything distilled from sugarcane or cane products can be considered rum.  Unlike whiskey and tequila rum has never been regulated.  It truly is the outlaw
choice for distillers.  From fermented New England molasses to distilled Nicaraguan pure cane juice, its all rum.  Classifying it can prove difficult but, there are some general types to be aware of and look out for. pictured Mount Gay Sugar Cane Rum from Barbados

Its good to have both a white and a dark rum available if you are serious about a usable bar.  The light rums tend to have very little flavor apart from the sugar sweetness which makes them perfect for mixing in fruit cocktails where as the dark rums which have been aged in bourbon barrels tend to have a bit more spice and depth to them which finds a great place in winter drinks.  There are high end aged rums just like with tequila and whiskey which can be sipped but, for the most part, rum is drank mixed.  Whether summer or winter Rum is a must have for any mans bar.

The Three Whiskeys - The big three, Scotch, Bourbon, and Rye.  Yes, of course there are many others but, in my opinion to have a working bar these are not required unless you are a connoisseur of one specifically, in that case you probably already have what you like.  Whiskey in general is basically a liquor distilled from grain mash then aged in generally charred white oak barrels.  The type of grain, the process, and the age varies by type.  Whiskey world wide is very tightly regulated so, each variety tends to have its own distinct flavor.  Across the board, I think if you are going to be drinking it straight, you should be looking at single malts over 15 years old.  That seems to be the sweet spot.  If you are mixing younger blended whiskey is just fine.  I would say have a good aged bottle squirreled away for you and special occasions and a lesser single malt out for general company and mixing.

Lagavulin 21yr Islay ScotchPappy Van Winkle's 20yr BourbonTempleton Prohibition Style Rye 5yr

(L-R) Lavavulin 21yr Islay Scotch, Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve 20yr Bourbon, Templeton 5yr Prohibition Style Rye.  some of the best of the best, pricey but, worth it

To start, Scotch, obviously, is native to Scottland.  Generally the malts are smoked over a peat fire before distilling giving Scotch its signature smokey flavor.  Scotch is usually distilled at least twice and is aged for a legal minimum of at least three years in oak barrels.  Finally, Scotland has been split into four traditional distilling regions, The Highlands, Lowland, Islay and Campbeltown, each with its own flavor.  The Lowlands tend to be regarded as the lightest bodied Scotches, Islay Scotches have been described as heavily peated and full bodied,  the highland distilleries tend to produce a Scotch that is between the heavy flavor of Islay and the light body of the Lowlands, it has been described as one of the more complex Scotch regions, finally Campbeltown Scotches have been called delicate and a touch briny.

Bourbon is a distinctively American whiskey originally from Bourbon county Kentucky.  There are few requirements beyond being made from at least 51% corn mash and be aged in new oak in the US of A.  Bourbon is usually made, at least in part, from sour mash, which is a mix of new mash and previously made mash.  It can vary greatly from brand to brand but, it is generally recognized as a sweeter whiskey with notes of caramel and spice that it picks up from the oak while aging.

Finally, Rye.  Although Canadian whiskey was traditionally made with rye there are no requirements for it to be made as such so, if you are looking for a real rye get one labeled as such.  American Rye is required to be made from at least 51% rye mash beyond that the requirements are more or less the same as Bourbon.  The biggest difference is of course the flavor that the Rye imparts as opposed to the corn.  Rye is known as a dry, spicier whiskey then bourbon with less of the sweet characteristics that bourbon is known for.  This third of the whiskey brothers adds a great balance to your whiskey collection.

When it comes down to it, it doesn’t matter what other people say, it comes down to what you like.  Try a bunch of different kinds and hold on to the ones you like.  But remember, for a well rounded bar the three flavors should be represented.

LIQUEURS

Liqueur is any alcoholic beverage that has been flavored with fruit, herbs, nuts, spices, flowers, or cream and bottled with added sugar.  The important distinction is the added sugar which is what sets them apart from flavored liquor like lemon vodka.  Although many liqueurs have a lower alcohol content then liquors, liqueurs can bekahlua and baileys made well over 100 proof.  Now, liqueurs aren’t strictly necessary, they are more to
your taste but, it does seem like Triple Sec is in just about everything.

Cream Liqueurs - Coffee and Irish cream are two very popular flavors of cream based liqueur and are common in many cocktails especially in the winter.  Although the flavors are coffee and irish cream, they are mostly know by the brand names Kahlúa and Baileys Irish Cream respectfully.  They’re good to have on hand but, be aware they will go rancid if they are left to long so, by them for the season and don’t let them sit.

Fruit and Herb Liqueurs - These are the other end of the spectrum.  The fruit, nut, and herb flavored liqueurs.  Curaçao or, as its better known Triple Sec, is a popular
liqueur flavored with the dried peal of the Laraha citrus fruit.  The Laraha developed over the last few centuries from transplanted Valencia oranges on the island, Curaçao.  Although the Laraha fruit is so bitter it is considered inedible, the flavor it imparts is a great base for many many mixed drinks.

Sloe gin is another popular liqueur based on the Sloe, or blackthorn, berry.  Traditionally Sloe Gins are made by infusing the blackthorn berries in gin with some added sugar to help with extracting the juice. 

Finally, Campari is an italian apéritif that has been growing in popularity among the cocktail set.  It is traditionally used to make some very interesting summer cocktails.  It gives the flavor of orange with a mix of propriatary herbs and spices that make for a refreshing base with soda or juice.

WINE

These days good wine is as prolific as anything and with American wine at a level where it can stand toe to toe with any European offering, and in some cases beat them, there is no reason to be spending a fortune on imported French whatever.  When it comes down to it there are vineyards everywhere these days and many of them are putting out much better then decent wine.  Don’t get me wrong, there is a place for the high end 600 dollar a bottle of wine but, for the majority of us, it wouldn’t make any difference.

The key is to drink what you like and like what you drink.  Don’t worry about the label or the name.  If you like expensive wine then save up, if you find more affordable wines you like then stock up. But, know back to the topic at hand, hosting.  Its good to have a few variatles always on hand to suite a variety of tastes and foods.  I have asked around and come up with this short list of wines that would be good to have stashed under you bar just in case.

wine vault

you don’t need a catacomb wine vault to drink good wine.  a few well selected bottles is more then enough but, it does look pretty cool.

On the red end of the spectrum; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir cover a good range of tastes and are still very affordable.  Plus, I would recommend trying out some of the mixed variety house wines that are popping up at grocery stories at crazy prices.  They are obscenely cheap and as non-pretentious as can be plus, many of them taste great.  The kind of thing you serve at a BBQ in mason jars and when some one asks you what it is you just say, “wine.”

On the white side; Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Riesling give a similar spread on the other side.  The idea is to shop around, look for deals, and pick ones that you like.  Also, a bottle or two of sparkling white, not necessarily champagne but, in the same vein is a good idea.  Prosecco is the Italian version of champagne but, at a much better price while still holding a high level of quality so, it makes for a good buy.  There are varieties of sparkling white wine from most wine making regions and some of them rival the French champagne simply without the name.

Finally, it is always a good idea, especially in the winter or when the in-laws are coming over, to have a nice bottle of Brandy around.  Its kind of old fashion but, its good for cooking and mixes well plus, there are still a few people out there who love there Brandy.  Better to be prepared then not.

BEER

Beer is one of those things that is special on this list because it doesn’t keep very well and it definitely doesn’t travel very well.  If you are drinking a beer you want it to be brewed as close to you as possible and as recently as can be.  Thats why beer on tap is so good, its really fresh.  So, unlike most things on this list beer isn’t an investment, it is seasonal.  Do some research and find some of your local brewers and try everything.  If you live in the Northwest your lucky, its more or less heaven for beer lovers but, these days there are microbreweries in just about every city so, buy local.

perfect beer porn

In the warmer months, where you will be eating on the porch and having picnics in the park, stock up on India Pale Ales, Blondes, Ales, Lagers, Pilsners and Hefeweissen.  Look for light bodied, crisp beers with fruit or hops.  You could even pick up some cider for the ladies.

When it starts to cool off and the cook outs move inside, the fire place starts getting use and the pressure cooker is working double time look for Stouts, Porters, Abbeys, Stronge Ales, Barley Wine, and Browns.  Basicly anything thick and full-bodied.  Big, bold flavors that can stand up to the chillis, stews and roasts we all love but, be careful these dark ones tend to pack a punch.  They’ll keep you warm but, they’ll also knock you over.

MIXERS

Some mixers are easily stored while others should be kept as fresh as possible but, the nice thing about mixers is they aren’t exclusive to cocktails.  Many of them are used in cooking or just as normal drinks.  Things like soda water, tonic, sodas, and sauces like tabasco and worcheshire sauce generally keep well and can be bought and stored.  On the other hand fruit and vegetable juices, milk, and coffee should obviously be bought and used fresh but, for most people thats not a problem.

On the other hand, there are a few specialized mixers that have evolved from the fermented medicinal drinks of the 18th century.  Things like Vermouth and Bitters are very common in traditional cocktails and are making a resurgence with the rebirth of the cocktail.  Even the basics like, Martinis and Old Fashions have bitters and vermouth so, its the kind of things thats good to have around and since usually they are used in very small amounts you can buy them once and never have to think about it again.

mixer graph

cocktail mixer graph from valetmag.com

Vermouth comes in both Sweet and Dry varieties.  Dry being infused with a variety of herbs and spices on top of the wine base and sweet, as the name suggests, has sugar syrup added to the wine before it is fortified.  All though they sport the same name they each have their own distinctive flavor.

Bitters are not as straight forward.  They come in as many varieties as there are manufacturers and it seems that every country has there own type of bitters, made from local herbs and spices.  The important thing to know about are the two big ones; Angostura Bitters and Orange Bitters.  Angostura Bitters were originally made to mask the flavor of quinine tonic while traveling in the jungle.  The quinine being the only way to prevent malaria.  But, over the last hundred years or so, Angostura has brought its distinctive spice to many classic cocktails.  Orange Bitters don’t have as heroic a story but, are just as rooted in cocktail lore.  Its worth having both around, especially at three bucks a bottle.

THE GUIDE

Now you have your bar set up but, how do you mix a drink?  Got you covered on that front too.  There are literally hundreds of books out there on mixing cocktails with thousands of recipes to pick from but, American Bar by Charles Schumann is a good choice.  Well organized, beautifully illustrated, with heaps of information and over 500 recipes for any occasion this book should have a long and happy life on your bar top.

16

Sep

Formal informality is the kind of thing one would only find at the poshist of upper crust clubs such as the Soho House.  The story below straight from Mr. Porter illustrates that perfectly.
suitsandboots:


The member’s club Soho House recently found itself  in the British papers when Mr Peter Bingle, the head of a public  relations firm, used his blog to publicise the fact that his membership  of the club had been suspended. He had, he was told, repeatedly  contravened the club’s dress code, which discourages the wearing of  suits and ties.
It’s a dress code that I’m familiar with, because in the  past I have been made to remove my tie by the receptionist at the club’s  East London branch, Shoreditch House. I explained that I was there to  eat lunch with Mr Michael Drake, the renowned tie maker, and so ties  were, in essence, going to pay for my lunch, but this didn’t persuade  the receptionist to relax the club’s compulsory informality. He  explained that “it” would be more comfortable if I removed my tie,  although whether “it” referred to me, the people eating lunch around me,  or the general ambience, remained moot.

Kind of wish I had this problem.

Whether its casual or formal industry clubs such as the Soho house have a certain exclusive drawn and the excentrisities that come with them are just the icing on the cake.  Plus that fact that their creative bent lends itself well to amazing graphic design and interesting locations doesn’t hurt.

Formal informality is the kind of thing one would only find at the poshist of upper crust clubs such as the Soho House.  The story below straight from Mr. Porter illustrates that perfectly.

suitsandboots:

The member’s club Soho House recently found itself in the British papers when Mr Peter Bingle, the head of a public relations firm, used his blog to publicise the fact that his membership of the club had been suspended. He had, he was told, repeatedly contravened the club’s dress code, which discourages the wearing of suits and ties.

It’s a dress code that I’m familiar with, because in the past I have been made to remove my tie by the receptionist at the club’s East London branch, Shoreditch House. I explained that I was there to eat lunch with Mr Michael Drake, the renowned tie maker, and so ties were, in essence, going to pay for my lunch, but this didn’t persuade the receptionist to relax the club’s compulsory informality. He explained that “it” would be more comfortable if I removed my tie, although whether “it” referred to me, the people eating lunch around me, or the general ambience, remained moot.

Kind of wish I had this problem.

Whether its casual or formal industry clubs such as the Soho house have a certain exclusive drawn and the excentrisities that come with them are just the icing on the cake.  Plus that fact that their creative bent lends itself well to amazing graphic design and interesting locations doesn’t hurt.

soho house Miami posters

09

Jul

The Explorers Club

W.

hat’s been to both poles, the top of Mt. Everest, the bottom of the ocean and even the surface of the moon?

EC Flag

The official flag of the Explorer’s Club, that’s what.  Their flag represents their history of accomplishments and has been carried on hundreds of expeditions by Club members since 1918. Today there are 202 numbered flags, each with its own story, and several of them line the walls of the clubs headquarters in New York City.

Flag room

The flag room at Explorer Club headquarters, NY.  All the retired flags since 1918

On May 28,1904, at the request of Henry Collins Walsh, Adolphus Greely, Donaldson Smith, Henry Collins Walsh, Carl Lumholtz, Marshall Saville, Frederick Dellenbaugh, W. Furness, and David Brainard met for a dinner at the Aldine Association at 111 Fifth Ave, NYC with fifty other men known to the world of exploration to discuss the formation of an organization to “unite explorers in the bonds of good fellowship and to promote the work of exploration by every means in its power.”  This somewhat secretive organization would come to be known as The Explorers Club and become the unofficial head quarters of many of the 20th centuries most influential scientists and explorers.  Their roles include the likes of Sir Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay, John Glenn, Neil Armstrong, Charles Lindbergh and more then 3,000 other equally impressive people from around the world.

EC mountain expidition

After the first meeting of the Explorers Club on October 25, 1905, the groups headquarters moved around up-town New York until March of 1912 when they finally found a place of their own at 345 Amsterdam Ave.  This first HQ was a simple loft where the original members of the growing club could meet, keep the Clubs library, artifacts, and trophys.

Explorer Clubs Trophy room1

The Explorer Club headquarter’s trophy room

Explorers Club trophy room2

The Club soon began inviting scientists, researchers and explorers from within and outside the organization to come and tell of their experiences.  These informal discussions quickly developed into a lecture series that continues today.  By the end of 1912 The Explorers Club greatly expanded their membership by including in their rolls the members of the Arctic Club of America, a specialized Arctic exploration club which already had a large degree of overlap with the Explorers Club, among their ranks. Over the next 50 years the Club fought through financial troubles, moved the Club head quarters multiple times although without ever leaving Manhattan and in 1921 founded the Explorers Journal which was designed as a forum to share news from the field, news from headquarters, new acquisitions, obituaries (of which there were many), book reviews, and so on. Finally, in 1965 the 1910 Jacobean townhouse built by Stephen Clark on E. 70th St. was bought by the Club and renamed in honor of the generous donations from the famed journalist Lowell Thomas creating a landmark home base for explorers the world over.  This beautiful turn of the century building has remained the head quarters of the Club ever since and it was there that in 1981 the Club President Charles F. Brush extended membership to the prestigious Club to women for the first time.

Today the only restrictions to membership in this exclusive club are “notable contributions to the cause of exploration and furtherance of the scientific knowledge of the world.”  So, not exactly easy but, if it was easy would you want to join as much.  Members are made up of field scientists and explorers from over 60 countries in a wide range of disciplines including aeronautics, archaeology, mountaineering, oceanography, physics and zoology.

arctic exploration

Even though the clubs accomplishments are vast and sometimes on a grand scale the general day-to-day activities are kept under wraps.  They do, however, make it abundantly clear that lavish dinners, awards ceremonies and explorations to far corners of the globe are the norm for members of The Explorers Club.  The Club is well known, or maybe infamous is a better word, in New York for its annual black tie Explorers Club Dinner held at the Waldorf Astoria.  Members come from all over the world to attend, show off their new discoveries, give talks, and schmooze with some of the most accomplished people on the planet.  It has been described as a buffet of epic proportions consisting of exotic delicacies like fried cockroaches and spiders.  In 1951 (confirmed by the club archivist by this guy), they even went so far as to include bits of woolly mammoth meat that had been tenderizing in Siberian permafrost for ten thousand years.

Now, I have wanted to be Indiana Jones since I was just a boy so, in my mind this is still one of the most amazing organizations out there.  A little bit of secrecy and intrigue only makes it better and tell me what “gentleman” worth his weight in tail suits doesn’t belong to at least one secret society or fraternal organization.

28

May

The Art of the Duel

I figured if I’m going to write about Gentlemanly Pursuits I might as well start with a big one.  Dueling as we think about it in the western world dates back to around the 11th century in Europe and continued up into the modern day.  There was even a duel between two French members of parliament as recently as 1967 where they went at it with swords.  So, this concept is anything but dead.  The first well known code of dueling or code duello was introduced in Renaissance Italy although there had been many like it written before dating all the way back to the first millennia and old Germanic law, before what is considered the modern age.  There were many laws established through out Europe and the western world formalizing the institution of dueling but, the most influential system on the western world was the Irish code duello written in 1777.  So, if you ever find yourself in a situation where you or your lady’s honor has been besmirched, read this first.

dueling pistols

pair of flintlock dueling pistols

duel painting

1777 Code Duello

Rule 1. The first offense requires the first apology, though the retort may have been more offensive than the insult. Example: A tells B he is impertinent, etc. B retorts that he lies; yet A must make the first apology because he gave the first offense, and then (after one fire) B may explain away the retort by a subsequent apology.

Rule 2. But if the parties would rather fight on, then after two shots each (but in no case before), B may explain first, and A apologize afterward.

N.B. The above rules apply to all cases of offenses in retort not of stronger class than the example.

Rule 3. If a doubt exist who gave the first offense, the decision rests with the seconds; if they won’t decide, or can’t agree, the matter must proceed to two shots, or to a hit, if the challenger require it.

Rule 4. When the lie direct is the first offense, the aggressor must either beg pardon in express terms; exchange two shots previous to apology; or three shots followed up by explanation; or fire on till a severe hit be received by one party or the other.

Rule 5. As a blow is strictly prohibited under any circumstances among gentlemen, no verbal apology can be received for such an insult. The alternatives, therefore — the offender handing a cane to the injured party, to be used on his own back, at the same time begging pardon; firing on until one or both are disabled; or exchanging three shots, and then asking pardon without proffer of the cane.

If swords are used, the parties engage until one is well blooded, disabled, or disarmed; or until, after receiving a wound, and blood being drawn, the aggressor begs pardon.

N.B. A disarm is considered the same as a disable. The disarmer may (strictly) break his adversary’s sword; but if it be the challenger who is disarmed, it is considered as ungenerous to do so.

In the case the challenged be disarmed and refuses to ask pardon or atone, he must not be killed, as formerly; but the challenger may lay his own sword on the aggressor’s shoulder, then break the aggressor’s sword and say, “I spare your life!” The challenged can never revive the quarrel — the challenger may.

Rule 6. If A gives B the lie, and B retorts by a blow (being the two greatest offenses), no reconciliation can take place till after two discharges each, or a severe hit; after which B may beg A’s pardon humbly for the blow and then A may explain simply for the lie; because a blow is never allowable, and the offense of the lie, therefore, merges in it. (See preceding rules.)

N.B. Challenges for undivulged causes may be reconciled on the ground, after one shot. An explanation or the slightest hit should be sufficient in such cases, because no personal offense transpired.

Rule 7. But no apology can be received, in any case, after the parties have actually taken ground, without exchange of fires.

Rule 8. In the above case, no challenger is obliged to divulge his cause of challenge (if private) unless required by the challenged so to do before their meeting.

Rule 9. All imputations of cheating at play, races, etc., to be considered equivalent to a blow; but may be reconciled after one shot, on admitting their falsehood and begging pardon publicly.

Rule 10. Any insult to a lady under a gentleman’s care or protection to be considered as, by one degree, a greater offense than if given to the gentleman personally, and to be regulated accordingly.

Rule 11. Offenses originating or accruing from the support of ladies’ reputations, to be considered as less unjustifiable than any others of the same class, and as admitting of slighter apologies by the aggressor: this to be determined by the circumstances of the case, but always favorable to the lady.

Rule 12. In simple, unpremeditated recontres with the smallsword, or couteau de chasse, the rule is — first draw, first sheath, unless blood is drawn; then both sheath, and proceed to investigation.

Rule 13. No dumb shooting or firing in the air is admissible in any case. The challenger ought not to have challenged without receiving offense; and the challenged ought, if he gave offense, to have made an apology before he came on the ground; therefore, children’s play must be dishonorable on one side or the other, and is accordingly prohibited.

Rule 14. Seconds to be of equal rank in society with the principals they attend, inasmuch as a second may either choose or chance to become a principal, and equality is indispensible.

Rule 15. Challenges are never to be delivered at night, unless the party to be challenged intend leaving the place of offense before morning; for it is desirable to avoid all hot-headed proceedings.

Rule 16. The challenged has the right to choose his own weapon, unless the challenger gives his honor he is no swordsman; after which, however, he can decline any second species of weapon proposed by the challenged.

Rule 17. The challenged chooses his ground; the challenger chooses his distance; the seconds fix the time and terms of firing.

Rule 18. The seconds load in presence of each other, unless they give their mutual honors they have charged smooth and single, which should be held sufficient.

Rule 19. Firing may be regulated — first by signal; secondly, by word of command; or thirdly, at pleasure — as may be agreeable to the parties. In the latter case, the parties may fire at their reasonable leisure, but second presents and rests are strictly prohibited.

Rule 20. In all cases a miss-fire is equivalent to a shot, and a snap or non-cock is to be considered as a miss-fire.

Rule 21. Seconds are bound to attempt a reconciliation before the meeting takes place, or after sufficient firing or hits, as specified.

Rule 22. Any wound sufficient to agitate the nerves and necessarily make the hand shake, must end the business for that day.

Rule 23. If the cause of the meeting be of such a nature that no apology or explanation can or will be received, the challenged takes his ground, and calls on the challenger to proceed as he chooses; in such cases, firing at pleasure is the usual practice, but may be varied by agreement.

Rule 24. In slight cases, the second hands his principal but one pistol; but in gross cases, two, holding another case ready charged in reserve.

Rule 25. Where seconds disagree, and resolve to exchange shots themselves, it must be at the same time and at right angles with their principals, thus:

If with swords, side by side, with five paces interval.

N.B. All matters and doubts not herein mentioned will be explained and cleared up by application to the committee, who meet alternately at Clonmel and Galway, at the quarter sessions, for that purpose.

via

set of rapiers

set of rapiers one of the most common and deadly dueling swords