Oilskin (oilies) and waxed cotton clothing owe their origins to the great age of the sailing ship and the age of navigation.  Its hard to pin point exactly when oilskin techniques began but, its probably a safe bet that, in some form or another, that some rudimentary version has existed as long as sea travel.  With the invention of the compass and increasingly better maps in the late middle ages, the beginning of long distance exploration all around the world was begun.

Italianate Harbour Scene with the Monument of Ferdinand I de’ Medici at Leghorn

Sailing ships were traditionally rigged with linen sails and so, with the fabric in such abundance fishermen and sailors used it for everything.  From clothes to wadding.  At some point these professional sea folk found that by applying boiling linseed oil (from flax seed) to the linen and letting it set the linen was rendered waterproof and was excellent material for making waterproof capes.  However, the linen was heavy and the linseed oil turned yellow and stiffened over time.  Oilskin proved to be a great way to keep yourself, as well as anything else, dry in very wet environments such as the deck of a ship but, it was also difficult proved to be dangerous to make and restrictive to wear.  All the same, cloaks, chests, and document folds were all made from this versitle (and compared to leather or fur, light weight) material to protect their contents from the elements.

High-Tech Modern Oilskins in the midst of a squall

Cotton sails eventually replaced linen.   Cotton was lighter and could be woven into a tighter and stronger fabric.  It also led to lighter and stronger clothing such as oiled cotton jackets, coats and trousers.  The jackets became especially popular among fishermen who would paint them bright colors with ordinary house paint to make themselves more visible if and when they went over board.  The next major evolution came in the mid-19th century when linseed oil was replaced by parafin wax.  Parafin wax treated garments maintained their flexibility and were also breathable so condensation wouldn’t build up.  This led to more sophisticated garments providing the wearer with significantly more movement and utility.  Although the cut, style, and technology in waterproofing changed over the centuries the need for men of the sea to be easily seen in a squall stayed consistent throughout. 

(L) Norman Rockwell’s Saturday Evening Post with a fisherman in a slicker

(R) the Gorton’s Fisherman in his Sou-Wester

When plastics and synthetic fabrics were invented in the mid-20th century traditional oilskins became obsolete.  ”Space age” technology made slickers better, lighter, easier to make, more comfortable, and infinitely customizable.  Everyone in American has the classic image of the Gordon’s fisherman from the fish sticks box or the Norman Rockwell-esk idea of the stalwart seaman battling the ocean in his bright yellow slicker.  Another advantage of modern technology is that man “professional” slickers these days include floatation devices, GPS location, built in harness, and in some cases a small tool kit.

If he can rock it so, can you

Now, of course these professional level outfits are extreme for the average person but, in the cold wet grey months ahead having a good coat to keep you dry is a must.  Having some color to brighten up your day is also never a bad thing plus, the sunshine yellow acts the same for you in the city as it does for the fishermen in the sea.  It will get you noticed.  Don’t wait to long, get out there and enjoy in the rain in style.

Here in Portland, spring is usually quite a wet season.  We understand rain.  Just like the Sami people of northern Europe who have literally hundreds of words to describe snow, we here in the northwest have more ways to say its raining then you could shake a stick at.  So, on those spring days when its not cold enough to pull out the parka but its pouring so hard the streets look more like rivers, the Mack is about as perfect as it gets.

the Mack also known as that jacket Tintin wears

Mr. Charles Macintosh was no fashion designer, in fact he was a professional clerk and a science hobbiest, today we would probably call him an engineer.  Either way he is responsible for an innovation that changed the clothes we wear forever.  In 1823, while experimenting with rubber he stumbled upon the world’s first completely waterproof textile.  He found that by sandwiching liquid rubber between two layers of wool fabric the resultant material was entirely sealed, preventing any water from seeping through.  Macintosh called his invention “rubberized cloth” and soon founded a company to produce and develop waterproof versions of traditional British outerwear.  The result being the, at the time, unimaginable combination of being able to be comfortable, presentable and dry all at the same time.  The company found amazing success in the rain soaked UK.

(L) Mackintosh cutting room (R) Mr. Charles Macintosh himself

In 1830, Charles Macintosh and Co. merged with Thomas Hancock, a Manchester based inventor who was also studying rubberized materials.  Although the early jackets had problems with smell, stiffness, and a tendency to melt in hot weather, the combined talents of the two lead to the discovery of vulcanized rubbers in 1843 perfecting their, in comparison, rudimentary naptha rubber all weather jackets.  Mackintosh (note the addition of the ‘K’) became the official supplier of the British Army, railways, and police department and continued to produce their rubberized jackets throughout the 19th and 20th century but by that point the original patent’s had expired and nearly every company on the planet had a version of the “mack coat.”

Now a days all Mackintosh garments are made using their famous rubberised cotton fabric that is put through a patented welt, seal and coating process. Furthermore, backing tape is placed behind all seams to ensure complete waterproofing, and all pockets and linings are glue fixed and hand finished in their Scottish factory.  Yes, the real thing has gotten very expensive but, its been around so long that there are more copies then you can shake a fist at.  You can find them in just about every color and vary massively in price.  Look for one that doesn’t play to much with the original.  Its simplicity is what makes it.  Slant pockets, hidden buttons, and a high collar in a nice neutral color will last you a life time.

(L) Bonobos (R) Mackintosh x Epaulet

High button boots were the dominant boot style for men and women through the end of the 19th century and fell out of favor after WWI.  Efficient and cost-effective sewing machines specialized for button attachment brought button boots into mass production in the 1880s. Elias Howe first patented a hand-cranked lockstitch sewing machine for cloth in 1845, leading to a proliferation of sewing devices designed for specific tasks.  After 10 years of development James Morley, a sewing machine salesman from Massachusetts, began to patent industrial button-sewing devices adapting an existing automated eyelet feeder to feed buttons into his stitcher.  He started manufacturing buttons to fit his machines and soon with the manufacturing problems remedied high-button boots became the fashion icon of the era and a hallmark of the industrial revolution.

19th century shoe laster making a high-button boot by hand

Queen Victoria was crowned at age 18 in 1837 and the queens style was automatic fashion.  Stylish American women were quick to adopt her preference for low-heeled ankle boots.  By mid-century, the queen’s tastes made boots the preferred footwear of both men and women. Ankle boots even replaced velvet Prince Albert slippers for formal wear. The trade name for copies of Queen Victoria’s favorite boot was Balmoral or The Bal, after a vacation home her husband, Prince Albert, purchased for her in Scotland.  The Balmoral was a square-toed boot, laced at the front, with toe and ankle trim of a darker color than the vamp (upper). This image of being well-dressed in boots set the stage for the high-button shoes to come.  As women’s hemlines rose to the ankle, Queen Victoria’s flat boots morphed to include side buttons and overlapped edges that obscured the actual closure allowing women to wear the smallest possible size, even if their flesh bulged over the tops of the boots under their skirt.  They quickly became deregur for anyone in the know.

(L) an ad for the Wilkins One Prong button fastener, promises not to mangle the boot (R) vintage sterling silver button hook

Although button boots were gorgeous they proved difficult to put on and take of with so many tiny buttons so, the button hook was invented to ease the trouble of the fashionably inclined.  At first these hooks were luxury items for the rich made from silver and jewels making it easier to fasten and unfasten the custom button boots.  The hooks became almost a marker of status, but as the boots became more common with mass production the hooks starting being produced in larger numbers as well and quickly became a regular dressing accessory.

a variety of edwardian era mens footwear.  many with button fasteners

Apart from being attractive and fashionable, button boots were considered functional in that they were more secure than laced boots because they didn’t have the ability to come unlaced or loosen with wear through the day. Certainly there were many other styles of boots available, but just a quick browse through any antique fashion magazine will reveal that the high-button boot was considered the upmost in 19th century footwear.  Just after the turn of the 20th century, advertisements for a wholesale direct distributor, the W. L. Douglas Company of Brockton, Massachusetts, advised purchasers that every gentleman required only three pairs of shoes to “dress his feet properly on all occasions.” He needed lace shoes for cold and rainy weather. He needed Oxfords for warm sunny days. For dress and street wear, all he needed was a pair of patent Corona button shoes.

Ernest Shackleton rocking button boots with his dinner suit or tuxedo for the modern audience

The high button boot lingered until World War I although with less popularity.  In 1914, rationing of leather and other goods necessary to production and a move toward more functional forms pushed button boots to the side and frugality took hold.  Although high-button boots held on in affluent circles, the September 25, 1933 issue of “Time” magazine published the death of the high-button shoe, as pronounced by President Roosevelt during his first year in office. The president had read through the Department of Labor’s cost-of-living index, which was used to adjust federal employees’ wages, after seeing high-button shoes among indexed items the president ordered the department’s statisticians to revise the index’s list to reflect a contemporary selection of consumer items. The high-button shoe was officially out and so ended the fashion worlds long standing love affair with this most glorious style.

These days finding a quality pair is very difficult.  Your options are down to custom or vintage and both come with their own down sides.  There is one other possibility through a Japanese company which is making very high quality formail high-button boots but, at the price they are asking you’d be better off getting custom.  Either way, I thinka nice pair of would give an awesome unexpected bit of interest to formal wear these days when some many people are just doing it wrong.  If I had the money you know I would have a pair.

If your curious about that Japanese company their website is here

A hip length, open front sweater with a low neckline and some sort of closer down the front is so simple that its hard to imagine there being a time before it.  When it comes down to it the cardigan has probably been around in some form or another as long as knitting.  The name Cardigan, on the other hand, didn’t get coined until the mid 19th century.

Charge of the Light Brigade by Richard Caton Woodville

The British Major General James Thomas Brudenell, who was also the 7th Earl of Cardigan, was stationed in Crimea (that leg off the south of the Ukraine) in 1854 to defend the UKs interests in the declining Ottoman Empire from the Russians.  This engagement became known as the Crimean War.  The Major General was ordered to lead a doomed cavalry assault across a valley against a Russian cannon emplacement on high ground.  The casualty count was eulogized by Lord Alfred Tennyson in his poem “The Charge of the Light Brigade” and was stressed by the eye witness war correspondent William Russell with his reporting, “our Light Brigade was annihilated by their own rashness, and by the brutality of a ferocious enemy.”  Making it one of the most remembered battles of the war and Brudenell or the Earl of Cardigan, who survived, one of the important names and since the officers wore, what is remembered as, a type of knit and braided “sweater coat” trimmed with fur throughout the campaign, this garment gained the name Cardigan after Brudenells post.

By 1865 the Cardigan hit the ivy league in the form of the letter sweater.  The Harvard baseball team added the ‘H’ to the front of their jerseys and with the casual revolution pushing out the starched collars of 19th century edwardian fashion out it made room for 20th century school pride.  This look consisting of cardigans, button down collars, and  casual slacks became known as the prep look.  Soon everything from scarves, shirts, hats, socks, ties, sweaters, coats, and socks where being made with school colors in mind.

Beginning in the mid 20th century, with the rise of the atomic family and the suburbs, as fireplaces and gas space heaters were replaced by forced-air central heating, heavy indoor clothing became unnecessary. Heated automobiles and heated public transit made the bundling-up season shorter in much of the country.  The new cardigan sweater traveled easily without wrinkling, unlike the woolen blazers and cotton or linen suit coats it was quickly replacing in casual and fair weather conditions.

Mr. Rogers in Mr. Rogers Neighborhood with his famous cardigan and sneakers (1968-2001)

Finally we can’t mention cardigans without bring up Mr. Rogers, the beloved childrens TV host.  One man has never done more for the awareness of cardigans. Remember like everything there are good and bad cardigans and fit is all important.  The oversized ‘bag-lady’ cardigan has become popular for women and in hip hop but, if you want to look sharp wear it like a t-shirt.  Fit and just long enough to hit your belt.  There are many different kinds with collars, zippers, buttons, pockets and combinations of them and there are good in all as long as it fits.

When fall comes around and a lot of the heavier fabrics come out, work wear seems to take over.  The cold weather go tos of denim and corduroy are fabulous, and my opinions on them are well known.  But, corduroy and denim can only dress up so much.  Even with our dark selvedge jeans and designer corduroys they can only go so far.  So, what is to take the place of our chinos in the office when the temperature drops?

detail of Our Legacy’s Tweed Trousers

Tweed has always been country wear, mostly because of its heavily textured prominent weave but, modern tweed has evolved.  Some have become super posh and refined where as others have embraced the rougher sensibility and pushed the texture in more casual cuts.

Londons inaugural Tweed Run.  A leisurely winter bike ride through the busily metropolis in one of the more elegant winter fabrics.

Tweed is simply a rough, unfinished, woollen fabric.  It usually has a soft, open, flexible texture and is often found in a twill weave although a simple basket weave is also very common.  The well known mixed grey color that has been associated with tweed over the years isn’t necessary to make a tweed but, the heather mixtures where different colored wool strands are twisted together before being woven into the fabric, definitely add some awesome visual interest to an otherwise dull wool.

close up of Our Legacy’s fabric. check out that plain weave texture

Although tweed “professor” jackets are on point recently I think that majority of people still don’t wear sport coats on any kind of regular basis.  The idea of getting people out of there jeans with another equally comfortable and durable option on the other hand is very much in the realm of possibility.  So, I offer this, go out and give some plain tweed pants out his winter.  Wear them like you would wear your khakis in the summer of your dark jeans in the winter.  Get a pair with lots of crunchy texture that fits just right and has those little details that separate them from dressier trousers.  You’ll be just as comfortable as your friends in the jeans but, you will stand out from the crowd.  Give it a try and report back.

The word brogue goes all the way back to the sixteenth century in the British Isles.  It is actually a derivation of the Scotch/Irish Gaelic word brōg meaning shoe and brók from Old Norse meaning leg covering.  The shoes are so closely linked with the cultures of the Scotch and the Irish that their name as been used as the slang term for the strong recognizable accent of the region.  Modern brogues have their roots in pure function.  Their early ancestor was a boot made from heavy, untanned leather that was perforated so that the shoes could drain easily like a sieve, and a thick sole for stomping around the country side.

Brooklyn Circus modern brogue boots via Selectism.com

 Much of the highlands of Scotland and Ireland, the homeland of the brogue, are covered with sodden fields, bogs and marshes making it a very wet, not to mention uncomfortable place to trod unless you are properly prepared.  Since shoes were anything but water tight before the goodyear welt was perfected in 1869 easy drainage was a crucial part of the design of shoes in the isles.  Especially since many of the people who lived in Scotland and Ireland lived by hunting, shepharding, and farming, spending much of their slogging through the damp hills.  Without drainage, shoes would fill with water, becoming heavy and unpleasant to wear.  Over time, this rudimentary heavy work shoe came to be associated specifically with the working classes and country living because of its humble beginnings.

the birthplace of the country brogue. the Scottish highlands in fall

country brogues from one of the original English cobblers Grenson with a fat 

As technologies improved the traditional rudimentary form of the brogue evolved into a more formal shoe while still retaining the perforations, or broguing, and the traditional low heel but, losing the function, making the perforations simply decorative.  The actual term brogue wasn’t coined until the 20th century when the shoe had been refined to where gentlemen started to wear them during their country outings.  Seeing how resilient this peasant footwear was and not wanting to ruin their finer foot wear while relaxing at their country estates the gentry adopted brogues as a sort of homage to the noble peasant.  Though they did gain in popularity in the country no respectable person would be caught dead wearing them in the city or while conducting buisness.

modern brogues in the city

Today, brogues seem to be the shoe of the moment.  To go along with everything working class being brought back and dressed up brogues are going with dry selvedge denim and breton stripe shirts in design firms all across the US.  Whether or not peoples style choices are valid is not the point though, the renewed popularity of the brogue means that they are easily found at just about every price point and color.  So, go out and find a pair that feels good and do be afraid to scuff them up and get a little muddy.  After all that is what they are for.

Flannel has always had a somewhat split personality throughout history.  One leg in the world of blue collar, while the other stands in beautiful simplicity.  Many people know flannel for its brightly colored plaid side made popular by loggers and outdoors men around the turn of the century but, what many people don’t know is that flannel is simply a soft napped fabric woven from loosely spun yarn, the name itself doesn’t imply any color or pattern whatsoever.  Although flannel can be made from almost any fiber, good flannels tend to be made of cotton or wool with some synthetics these days.

(L) Timberworks Lumberjack Show owner and MC, Dave Weatherhead, in his plaid flannel. a real lumberjack (R) the real man in the gray flannel suit from theSartorialist.com

Since around the time of the industrial revolution flannel has been the fabric of choice for winter wear and linings at every level.  Everyone knows the classic image of the lumberjack in his red plaid flannel shirts and suspenders.  In the 60’s The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit was the impitomy of the average business man.  Most football and baseball uniforms were made of flannel all the way through the 60’s.  And we all know how in the early 90s, oversized plaid flannel had a stint in the lime light with the grunge movement.  For over a century people have used flannel as a liner in jackets and pants for the extra warmth.

Robert Redford in The Natural in his flannel New York Mets uniform

In reality, flannel is a very practical fabric.  It is relatively lightweight for the amount of heat it holds, it is easily washable (in cotton), its durable, and can be dyed any number of patterns or colors.  These days plaid flannel has been coming back in a big way but, it much trimmer more tailored cuts, taking it from grunge to fashion over night.  Of course you can still get the bright red, yellow, and blue plaid shirts that are the trademark of the outdoorsman but, there is also the classic flannel suit in a much more modern shape as well as more casual winter office wear in flannel trousers.  Although every mens wear outfit seems to be making good flannel this season some good options are, Lands End Canvas, Rugby, Pendleton, and on the low end Pacsun.  Its amazing you can find them at any price point.  If your really hard up there’s even Good Will.  Just remember the rules of fit and you will be stylin’ all winter.

The peacoat has been recognizable around the world for nearly three centuries now with very few changes from its original design.  Starting as a hard wearing seaman’s jacket in northern Europe the coat quickly gained in popularity among laborers in cold climates as it moved from port to port.  The actual word peacoat was derived from the name of the original 30-ounce wool cloth, pij, that the Dutch used to construct the hearty jacket.  The Dutch called their jackets “pijjjakker” or “pijjecker,” which in English means roughly “jacket of pij.”  Like most things of the sea, the jacket evolved and moved along trade routes through out the 18th century and was adopted by the British Royal Navy in the early years of the 1800s in turn spreading to the newly formed navy of the United States of America, which took much of its inspiration for its royal parentage throughout the 19th century.

(L) US Navy, c. 1870 (R) British Royal Navy officer c.1900

Eventual the English pronunciation of the Dutch pijjjakker took hold with the “pea jacket” becoming one of the most popular coats in history.  When it was finally adopted into the official uniforms of the US Navy toward the end of the 19th century they were being made from melton wool.  Melton wool is tightly woven and then treated with heat and high pressure to create a very dense, wind proof fabric perfect for uniforms.  This 32-ounce melton wool jacket would be standard issue for all US Navy enlistees all the way through to the 1970’s.  All though there have been some minor changes to the design, most notably two less buttons, lighter fabric, only two pockets, and more relaxed fit, over the years the basic look of the coat as endured.  A stout, double breasted jacket, with a large collar to block the wind and big buttons that can be worked with gloves goes all the way back to the original pijjjaker.

Lone Sailor Statue. modeled on then Petty Officer 1st class Dan Maloney, the ‘typical’ sailor

Although the build quality of the Navy issue jackets has definitely gone down since the early days of the American peacoat, it has slowly but surely made its way into the main stream and can be found in almost every designer label’s collection around the world.  Today peacoats can be found in just about every fabric, color, and price but, for my money, I dont understand paying hundreds of dollars for something of inferior quality that was intended to be cheap and durable when there are hundreds of thousands of military surplus peacoats at very reasonable prices to be had.  Plus, one of the beauties of the peacoat is its simplicity.  Its all about the silhouette, not some crazy fabric.  You might say, “but, you just told us Navy issue build quality has gone down.”  To that I would respond, “true, but, here in lies the beauty of vintage.”  The original Navy issue peacoats were built so tough and became so popular during the war years that there are still many good quality very lightly used originals to be found at good prices.  Check out this post at the Fedora Lounge forum about shopping vintage peacoats for the details but, just a teaser, one highlight, corduroy lined pockets and nipped waists on the WWII era jackets.

WWII era Navy recruitment poster with a girl in an officers peacoat

One last thing to remember.  Peacoats are nice warm but, they are not formal in anyway.  Actually, they are the opposite.  Some designers are trying to dress up the peacoat but, I think it has its place and its perfect there.  With a pair of jeans and a dixie cup hat its right at home.  There is no need to throw it on over a suit.  Thats what your top coats for.  So, get yourself a simple original, flip up your collar, and explore late fall in comfort and style.

PS if your interested in any US Navy uniform history there is a great write up here

Its getting close to gift giving time and as if buying things for the people you love wasn’t hard enough there are white elephant parties, office pools, and work gatherings where gifts for near strangers are sometimes expected.  In these instances you don’t necessarily know who you are buying for or there taste.  This can make things very difficult, especially if you don’t want to be that guy who buys the gag gift, or the one who walks in with an unwrapped bottle of Jack.  Although there may be a time and place for things like that there are some good stand bys that make for great gifts no matter who is receiving.

(L) Calvin Klein monotone ribbed scarf (R) Moncler tricolor ribbed scarf

One of the great things about scarves this time of year is that they are useful and most people don’t buy them for themselves.  They also come in just about every shape, size, color, style, and most importantly price range.  Most people have at least one simple fine gauge wool scarf in their closet from some relative as well as a hand knit one from the girlfriend who loved to knit or grandma, I know I definitely have both but, I have also found myself always going back to my trusty old ribbed scarf.

collegiate scarf straight from thestyleblogger

The ribbed scarf is exactly what it sounds like, a scarf knit with ribs which gives it lots of stretch for extra comfort.  Those ribs also add mass without adding to much weight meaning a light weight scarf that can hold lots of heat.  Generally more textural things are seen as more casual so, its easy to wear with jeans and a sweater or do the opposite and dress it up with a suit for a bit of contrast.  Personally, I really like scarves.  Scarves are like the casual winter version of the tie.  Don’t get me wrong, I do love ties and they are as good in winter as they are in summer but, a scarf can give you the opportunity for the flair and bravado of a tie but, without the stigma.

ribbed scarves in ones school colors were popular among the ivy league crowd in the 50’s and 60’s

With the prep revival in the last few years ribbed college stripe scarves have come out in force.  The dark textural colors of winter although appropriate can sometimes be a bit heavy and somber for a daily wardrobe.  A thinking person needs to find ways to bring a lightness to their cold weather look.  Along with socks, caps, and other accessories, collegiate scarves can give that punch of color that can make all the difference.

Corduroy is one of those fabrics I tend to turn to every fall.  Although I love my jeans, my corduroy is just as rugged and adds that bit of variety that some people start to lose when it starts getting to chilly for chinos.  Corduroy is believed to have originated in Manchester, England during the Industrial Revolution when textile industry was starting to move out of cottages and into mechanized factories.  As the name suggests it probably originated in Cord, then with the addition of the obsolete duroy or, a coarse woollen fabric, the name was born.  While some claim corduroy to be of French origin do to the fact the word “corduroy” looks French, as if derived from “corde du roi” (“cloth/cord of the king”), in fact there is no such phrase in French.  Actually the French call corduroy velours côtelé.  These days it is referred to by many names such as corded velveteen, elephant cord, pin cord, and Manchester cloth.  It can be easily identified by the telltale parallel ‘cords’ or ‘wales’ that run up and down the material and exhibit the softness that some describe as velvet with ridges.

Before the industrialization of textile manufacturing in the late 18th century most fabric was made on a very small scale by individual craftsmen.  With the development of mechanisims to process fibers like cotton as well as the ‘flying shuttle loom’ development of rapidly growing cash crops exploded across the western world.  With all of these technological developments production of good quality, hard wearing, cheap work clothes became a staple in English society and cotton took its place as one of the most popular fabrics in the world.  Since cotton made such durable and easy to maintain fabric things like drill, canvas, and corduroy became popular work wear for the various seasons.  It is such a strong fabric that it was even issued as part of military uniforms in the mid-19th century in the form of pants, a jacket and a vest during the Carlist War in Spain.  The Aduaneros or customs officers on the boarders of the Spanish state wore these uniforms with their blue beret, alpargatas, a sort of light sandal made of hemp, a grey cloak and a flesh-colored corset armed with a simple carbine, to collect duties and restrict imports.

(L)(a) Cuerpo de Aduana, Fall 1836 (b) Lancero de la Caballeria, Guipúzcoa, Spain 1835 (R) French bohemians at the turn of the century. corduroy pants and canvas smocks

Outside of the military context corduroy fabric had been used for young mens fashion as well as work clothes for centuries before denim became the popular work wear in Europe and North America.  Its durability and warmth made it ideal as hard wearing fall, winter and early spring wear in Europe and the colonies.  It became known as “the poor man’s velvet” since it was used by workers, artists and students and had the same fluffy pile of the fustian family or textiles.  The comfortable and stylish fabric became a staple of English country wear among nobles who split their time between a country estate and their townhouse.  Corduroy gave a soft, sturdy, and warm alternative to the delicate wools of finely tailored Saville Row suits and could still be tailored into respectable clothes for hunting and general pastoral living.  It wasn’t until the 20th century when universities started to do away with scholars robes for daily use that these comfortable and casual but, still elegant looks made their way to campus which might be were they were most iconic.  Students and professors would wear there jackets and pants until they were threadbare and simply cover the bare spots on the elbows with leather patches.  Today people buy jackets with the patches already attached but, they were their for a reason at one point.

(L) corduroy, tweed, and a rep tie a British staple. ready for the quail hunt (R) working man look from Polo Rugby

Corduroy was originally made with a cotton and linen blend but, nowdays most manufacturers of corduroy use some synthetic component like lycra with the cotton to help the corduroy keep its shape and keep a softer hand, in doing so they have destroyed much of this historic fabrics rugged edge.  It is now often used by designers for more sophisticated clothing although it can still be found being used for work wear in some parts of the world.  With the heavy trad movement these days any historic look like this can be pushed to extremes but, corduroy will always be a great go to in the colder months. Try putting the jeans aside and pulling on the corduroy.  Same idea as always, if it fits, your set or you can add a corduroy jacket with your jeans to make up a comfy up scale look.  Play with it, corduroy is the opposite of stuffy and if you really get into the wale look there’s even a Corduroy Appreciation Club.  There is going to be a big event in NYC on the date that most resembles the fabric itself November 11 this year (11/11/11) so, get your wales out, its going to be quite a party.